Saturday, 22 August 2015

A Derelict London Tour of Silvertown

There is one aspect of exploration and photography that I don’t write about often and that is my interest in derelict and abandoned places. I follow a lot of urban explorers on Instagram and I love seeing their photos of abandoned factories, hospitals and schools. If you know anything about urban exploration, you’ll know that it isn’t for everyone. It can be dangerous and often involves illegal entrance into places that can be littered with debris, rubble and the occasional syringe. Not that I’d actually know first hand, because I tend to be a cowardly, law-abiding explorer but I can dream, right?

One of the accounts that I follow on Instagram is Paul Talling from Derelict London. Paul is the author of Derelict London and London’s Lost Rivers and he conducts tours of the types of places that you don’t normally see in London. Paul’s tours are extremely popular and you have to book months in advance but one day in May, I decided to take the plunge and book a tour in August.

I decided to go on a tour of Silvertown, the area in the immediate vicinity of London City Airport. Silvertown was named after Samuel Winkworth Silver who opened a rubber factory in the area in 1852. This area was once a booming industrial town dominated by sugar refiners, rubber producers and animal rendering plants. Devastated first by the Silvertown explosion, then by the Blitz and later by the decline of industry in Britain, large parts of Silvertown lie in dereliction and decay. With the area marked for redevelopment, you’ll need to hurry to catch a glimpse of the history and culture of this once booming town.

Derelict London Silvertown - Tate and Lyle

Our tour began at London City Airport and within moments, we realised that we were in a whole new world. Our first stop was Tate & Lyle, an institution that was to feature heavily in our tour. We learned that Henry Tate never met Abram Lyle and that the two were bitter rivals. It was only after their deaths that Tate & Lyle merged at the turn of the 20th century to become the sugar giant we know today.

Derelict London Silvertown - Tate Institute

In case you’ve already made the connection, I can confirm that Henry Tate was the same person who founded the Tate Gallery but that wasn’t his only legacy. Across from Tate & Lyle stands the now abandoned and derelict Tate Institute which was founded as a social club for Tate employees. In more modern times, this Gothic building served as the Silvertown Public Library until 1961.

Derelict London Silvertown - Roof of Tate Institute

There are plenty of barbed wires and ghost signs in the area which reminded me a lot of downtown Johannesburg, much of which is boarded up and derelict too.

Derelict London Silvertown - Ghost Sign Parker StreetDerelict London Silvertown - Paul Talling

I am always impressed by the quality of London’s tour guides and Paul was a wealth of fascinating information about this area. He has done years of research and in addition to the tour, I’d recommend you spend an afternoon getting lost in his website.

Derelict London Silvertown - Thameside Industrial Estate

We moved over the new Crossrail tracks to arrive at the Thameside Industrial Estate.

Derelict London Silvertown - Tay Wharf

This is all that remains of Tay Wharf. Keiller & Sons jam factory occupied Tay Wharf from 1880 to 1997. They received their fruit by ship and sugar was supplied by Tate & Lyle down the road.

Derelict London Silvertown - 1970s Picket Line Graffiti

Just outside of Tay Wharf, we saw this picket line graffiti dating back to the 1970s. The “Snake Pit” refers to the strikers who broke the picket line and went back to work. I’m a fan of street art, as you know, but this was the most authentic piece of street art history that I have seen so far.

Derelict London Silvertown - Brick Lane Music Hall

Across from Tay Wharf lies Brick Lane Music Hall which was once St Mark’s Church, Silvertown. The church has a fascinating history! Despite working in factories, many of the inhabitants lived in abject poverty. In 1859, a Christmas appeal was run in The Times and money was raised to deliver food parcels to local families. A year later, money was raised again and a church was built with the proceeds. The locals were incensed, protesting that they wanted bread not bricks! Despite their protests, the church was well attended for over a century before being deconsecrated and abandoned in the 1980s. There is a rather grim story of a fire taking place at the church which was extinguished under the weight of pigeon droppings in the roof.

Derelict London Silvertown - Mural at Brick Lane Music Hall

In 1992, the Brick Lane Music Hall moved from Truman’s Brewery to St Mark’s Church and they are responsible for the restoration of the church to its former Gothic glory.

Derelict London Silvertown - Abandoned Lot

Next on our tour, we walked down North Woolwich Road towards Millennium Mill. We passed by several abandoned lots, some marked for redevelopment when London still used 0181 numbers!Paul warned that despite the slow start, we will soon see rapid development in this area.

Derelict London Silvertown - Georges Diner

We passed the derelict Georges Diner, run by Brian and once home of the best fry up in town.

Derelict London Silvertown - The Graving Dock

Next to Georges Diner (they never did get an apostrophe), we could see a beautiful Victorian building peeking out above the weeds. This is all that remains of the Graving Dock Tavern.

Derelict London Silvertown - Millennium Mills

Our next stop and one of the highlights of the tour for me, was a peek at the iconic Millennium Mills. I’ve actually written about Millennium Mills before in my post Millennium Mills: Past, Present and Future but it was great to see it for myself. The Mills will soon be redeveloped into swanky apartments as part of the greater Silvertown redevelopment programme.

Derelict London Silvertown - London Pleasure Gardens

We took a look at the site of the ill-fated London Pleasure Gardens, originally intended to run for 3 years from 2012 but which ran only for a disastrous five weeks. As you can see from the photo above, there was no pleasure to be found here.

Derelict London Silvertown - LondonDerelict London Silvertown - The Thames Barrier

Before long, we arrived at Pontoon Dock DLR station and the site of the Thames Barrier. I last took a day out at the Thames Barrier in 2009 and it was interesting to see the Barrier from the other side of the river.

Derelict London Silvertown - Thames Barrier Park

The hedges in Thames Barrier Park are shaping to look like waves. Here they are, rolling back towards Millennium Mills on the horizon.

Derelict London Silvertown - Harland and Wolff Gate

If Tate gave us his famous galleries, Lyle left us Lyle Park in Silvertown. Nestled on the bank of the Thames behind a document storage facility, you might miss it if you didn’t know it is there. There are some fantastic views of North Greenwich from the park and it is also home to the ornamental gates of Harland and Wolff Ltd, shipbuilders for the White Star Line, including the ill-fated Titanic. These gates stood at the entrance to the ship builders’ premises in Woolwich Manor Way from 1924 to 1972.

Derelict London Silvertown - Looking Towards North Greenwich

Derelict London Silvertown - Number 12

From Lyle park, we continued down Bradfield Road to a particularly grimy part of Silvertown. This area wasn’t completely abandoned but was certainly derelict.

Derelict London Silvertown - Abandoned Yard

We spotted an abandoned yard next to the old Petro Lube premises. A number of my party giggled at the sign on the door.

Derelict London Silvertown - Petro Lube

We continued toward the Lyle Golden Syrup factory. There is an abandoned tract of land next to the factory and the promise of delicious syrup does little to lift the spirits of the area.

Derelict London Silvertown - Abandoned Lot Next to Tate and LyleDerelict London Silvertown - TimesCo

Across the road from the factory is the abandoned premises of the Timesco Surgical and Medical who moved to their new premises in Essex years ago. Just before we reached the Silvertown station, we glimpsed a fantastic view of the Lyle Golden Syrup factory. The factory is neither derelict or abandoned, with a million tins of syrup being produced each month, but together with the weeds, graffiti and grey clouds, it painted a perfect end to our tour.

Derelict London Silvertown - Lyle Syrup

Derelict London and London’s Lost Rivers tours run every weekend and some Fridays too. They sell out months in advance so the best idea to catch a tour is to sign up to Paul’s mailing list. I paid £12 for this tour but tours range from £11 to an all-day tour for £16.50. That reminds me – Paul’s tours are long and require a lot of walking on sometimes uneven ground so this tour may not be suitable for those with mobility problems.

I would highly recommend this tour and am hoping to catch another tour in January. If you’d like to join me, please get in touch and we can coordinate when the January dates are released.

Do you like abandoned or derelict sites or was this post definitely not your cup of tea?


Sunday, 2 August 2015

Untitled London: An End Is A Beginning

St Dunstan in the East

The time has finally arrived. After much anticipation, my days of working in London have come to an end and I’ll no longer be commuting into the City on a daily basis. This is the conclusion of one chapter in my life, of course it is, but it is also a beginning. I’m looking forward to a work/life balance and having the time to fit everything in without burning the candle at both ends.

I’m also looking forward to falling in love with London all over again, to travelling in when I want to and to discovering ever more quirky and hidden places.

To mark my final week in London, I spent some time exploring some of my favourite places around the City and London Bridge area. I’m a little surprised to note that Leadenhall Market and the Monument aren’t included here but each has been featured many times on this blog before.

Monday 27 July 2015, 7:57am: St-Dunstan-in-the-East

Looking into St Dunstan in the East

My very favourite place in all of London. For the second time in a month, I arrived at St Dunstan-in-the-East and had to stand on the outside looking in to the bombed out church that survived the Blitz. In the photo above, you can see straight in to the church to where there is now a garden, trees and benches.

Tuesday 28 July 2015, 8.18am: 20 Fenchurch Street

The Walkie Talkie 20 Fenchurch Street

Best known for its Death Rays, Skygarden and domination of the City skyline, I know I’ll return to the Walkie Talkie building someday soon because I still need to get some photos from the Skygarden.

Wednesday 29 July 2015, 7.57am: St Olave in Hart Street

The Steeple - St Olave at Hart Street

Best known for the row of skulls over the gate (which I featured in London at Dawn), St Olave in Hart Street is a little oasis of calm in the middle of the City. I especially love the church steeple and weathervane which you can spot above.

St Olave at Hart Street

Thursday 30 July 2015, 8.03am: Hay’s Galleria

Hay's Galleria

Hay’s Galleria is best known for its stunning Victorian design, the Navigators steampunk sculpture, fantastic restaurants and incredible views of the City. Another place I know I’ll be returning to soon for fun rather than necessity.

The City from hay's Galleria 

Thursday 30 July 2015, 8.20am: The Tower of London

The Tower of London

For as long as I live, I know I’ll remember working around the corner from this magnificent castle. I’m looking forward to spending a long, leisurely afternoon here soon and not simply having to rush past it!

Friday 31 July 2015, 8.45am: More London

Tower Bridge from More London

I think discovering this fantastic early morning view is one of the highlights of this year. I'm highly doubtful I’ll be able to see it so early in the morning any time soon but I can live with that!

From City Hall to the City

Friday 31 July 2015, 5.27pm: 30 St Mary Axe

Damien Hirst Charity St Mary Axe

I couldn’t possibly have written this post without including the glorious Gherkin, officially known as 30 St Mary Axe. These days you can find a giant Damien Hirst installation “Charity” here, meant to challenge our perceptions and treatment of disabled people in society. Her money box has been broken into and there are giant, plate-sized pennies scattered around her feet.

That brings an end to working in London but I hope that means that there will be much more playing in London to come. For a start, I’m hoping to indulge in a lot more brunch in the future. Who is keen on meeting up?


Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Hiking at Lionsrock Sanctuary

Hiking trail Lionsrock sanctuary

I think it is safe to say that I am a very bad blogger indeed. Emm in London turned seven this month and never before in all those years have I fallen off the radar in such a dramatic fashion. I mentioned in June that I’d been burning the candle at both ends and that something had to give and I’m pleased to announce that we are almost there. I begin a new job in August and will no longer be commuting into London or working quite as much overtime as I worked this year. I am definitely looking forward to reclaiming my life and returning to being a decent blogger and blogging friend.

One of the casualties of my Great Blogging Break was posting about our trip to South Africa in December. We had such an incredible time and I definitely want to tell you about Lionsrock Sanctuary which was a highlight not only of our trip but possibly of my entire life to date.

Lionsrock Sanctuary is a Big Cat sanctuary run by the charity Four Paws International. They exist to provide a sanctuary for big cats from around the world and have conducted several high profile rescues of lions, tigers and other big cats from zoos, circuses and private collections around the world. To fund their work at the sanctuary in Bethlehem in the Free State in South Africa, Lionsrock provide a family friendly lodge featuring self-catering chalets and double rooms.

We discovered Lionsrock quite by accident – I had searched to find accommodation for 11 people in December, South Africa’s peak tourist season and went ahead and booked at Lionsrock based on the excellent reviews alone. I had no idea what an important, incredible place this really is.

Lionsrock is located on acres of beautiful savannah near the Golden Gate National Park and aside from swimming and interacting with the animals, one of the best aspects of the park is their hiking trails. And so it was that we grabbed two grandparents, four parents, an aunt, an uncle and four kids and we took a hike right around the lion enclosures and nearby koppie (small mountain in Afrikaans).

Jazz at Lionsrock

We were guided by Jazz, the very energetic dog that lives at Lionsrock.

The Lionsrock

You could see forever from the top of the hills.

The Old Farmers House at Lionsrock

We found the remains of the old farmhouse from when Lionsrock was an old farm.

Mysterious steps at Lionsrock

I can never resist a set of stairs and went bounding up these stairs, followed by all four of the kids.

Remains of the farmhouse after fire

The main section of the farmhouse had obviously been in a fire and their were charred remains to be seen.

Greenery at Lionsrock

I think this is when I’m at my happiest, outside in nature with the sun shining.

Hiking at Lionsrock

These are some of the people that I love the most. Right i front of me is Sara – we met when we were fifteen and I met Stephen the night of her wedding.

A view to remember Lionsrock Sanctuary

More gratuitous scenery and a peak at the watering hole.

Rocks and shrubbery at Lionsrock

I first fell in love with the rocks and scenery in this area when I was eleven years old and have been coming to this area frequently in the years since. I can clearly remember standing at Golden Gate National Park on a school trip, gazing down onto a scene not unlike this one. Of course, we were in the midst of a great drought in the 1980s and I recall it being much drier and more yellow.

Watering hole Lionsrock Sanctuary

Thankfully drought is not a problem in South Africa at the moment and we were treated to a couple of thunderstorms during our stay at Lionsrock. I love thunderstorms.

Dried riverbed Lionsrock

As you round the last section of the hike, you look down onto the lion and big cat enclosures. I’d like to think that the cats are happier here after their lives in cages and concrete enclosures but the painful truth is that cats in zoos and circuses are not fed the right foods and are deliberately underfed to stop them growing to their full potential so they often have health problems for the rest of their lives. Nevertheless, Lionsrock Sanctuary and Four Paws are doing fantastic work and recently rescued two lion cubs from a refugee camp in Gaza.


Have you ever been to an animal sanctuary or rescue centre? Tell me all about it!


Friday, 19 June 2015

Nick Darke’s The Dead Monkey at Park Theatre in Finsbury Park

UK, London, Park Theatre 90 Mongrel Thumb, in association with Falmouth University presents The Dead Monkey by Nick Darke.  Directed by Hannah Price with James Lance as Hank, Ruth Gibson as Dolores  and Charles Reston as Vet. Park Theatre, London, UK

10th June 2015
Photo: © ZuteLightfoot

California. The land of surfing, oranges and the great American dream. Dolores and Hank are married, happily perhaps or so they think. Hank was great once, a renowned surfer with a monkey on his back, literally speaking of course. Dolores was happy to be by his side, to look after his monkey when Hank went on to travel the country in search of the next great sale. Until the day that she wasn’t. Until the day that the monkey died and Dolores discovered that she has a unique talent.

When the tables are turned, Hank is happy to be by Dolores’s side, to look after their Macedonian curly tailed pig while Dolores exercises her gift. Until one day when he isn’t. Until the day that it all comes tumbling down and Hank realises that his best days are behind him.

Directed by Hannah Price, The Dead Monkey is bleakly comic and very dark. It lures the audience in with a promise of humour and satire before savagely delivering its message. Written by Nick Darke in 1986 and originally performed by the RSC, The Dead Monkey is a tale of desperation and creeping violence in a grimy American marriage that is as relevant today as it was almost 30 years ago.

The Dead Monkey is expertly performed by a three-person cast consisting of James Lance as Hank, Ruth Gibson as Dolores and Charles Reston as the vet. With all the action taking place on the intimate Park 90 stage, the cast grips you from the very first scene and takes you on a rollercoaster ride of love and duplicity, desperation and euphoric recall.

I was especially impressed with the set design and costumes in the play. For a moment there, it really felt like we were in a beachside shack in California which made the final scenes ever more powerful. All three actors underwent incredible transformations in their appearance for their roles with Gibson chopping off her long red locks and dying them platinum blonde and James and Charles adopting a moustachioed, early 1980s look that was startling in its authenticity (or is it just me that finds that particular period of fashion unsettling?)

I thoroughly enjoyed The Dead Monkey and would highly recommend it.

UK, London, Park Theatre 90 Mongrel Thumb, in association with Falmouth University presents The Dead Monkey by Nick Darke.  Directed by Hannah Price with James Lance as Hank, Ruth Gibson as Dolores  and Charles Reston as Vet. Park Theatre, London, UK

10th June 2015
Photo: © ZuteLightfoot

This is the second time that I’ve seen a play at The Park Theatre in Finsbury Park and I have to say that I really like it. The theatre is in a great location and is situated right outside Finsbury Park tube station. There are also loads of great restaurants in the vicinity and I’d especially recommend Pasta Remoli and My Cottage Cafe Lebanese Restaurant on Clifton Terrace. I certainly hope to see more performances here in future.

Presented by London theatre company Mongrel Thumb, The Dead Monkey is showing at Park Theatre in Finsbury Park until 4 July 2015. Prices start from £18 each with £12.50 Tuesdays and Pay What You Can matinees. Book online at Park Theatre or by telephone on 020 7870 6876.

Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, London N4 3JP.

Photo credits: © ZuteLightfoot


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