Liverpool Pier Head at Dusk

We were back in Liverpool earlier this month, 43 years to the day after we left. I don't come back as often as I used to, but leaving never gets easier.

"It's not the leaving of Liverpool that grieves me // But my darling when I think of thee" - The Dubliners

We ate an exceptional meal at Cargo Seafood Restaurant & Bar on our first night, and took a long, sunset walk along Princes Parade afterwards.

We looked across the Mersey river when we emerged from the restaurant to see the sun setting over New Brighton.

I don't think I will ever not be in awe of the Liver Building. Built in the Edwardian Baroque style, the Liver Building has two clock towers, topped by copper Liver Birds (Note, Liver is pronounced lie-ver, unlike Liverpool which rhymes with river).

The sky began to glow ever more orange as we made our way back towards Albert Dock.

We saw brand new buildings that I had not seen before, these near to the new Isle of Man ferry terminal.

I should probably mention at this time that I'm an Everton supporter and went to see the brand new stadium earlier in the day. I predict that the derelict area between the Isle of Man ferry terminal and Bramley Moore Dock will be completely redeveloped within 5-7 years.

We watched skateboarders show off at the old Pier Head while the sky burnt orange behind them.

We stopped to admire the Beatles statue at the old Pier Head. I said to Stephen that I didn't know who they were but they must be famous as so many people were taking photos with them, which elicited several gasps and stares from the crowd of tourists.

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The Ornate Ironwork of Crossness Pumping Station

I love hometown tourism, the idea that we don't need to travel far to discover hidden treasures. Despite my lofty aspirations, it took me far too long to visit Crossness Pumping Station, which is practically located in my back garden.

The pumping station has been hailed as a "wonder of Victorian engineering" and was built in the 1860s by Sir Joseph Bazalgette. Before Bazalgette’s system, raw sewage flowed directly into the Thames, contributing to outbreaks of cholera and the infamous Great Stink of 1858. The pumping station helped move waste from the city out towards the Thames Estuary. Of course, we are now in a new era of public sanitation crisis but Crossness stands as a testament to Victorian ingenuity and design.

We began our visit in the main engine house. With its ornate ironwork and beautiful restoration, it is easy to see why the pumping station has acquired the nickname “Cathedral of Sewage".

It's quite simply breathtaking inside.

The central hub of the station is known as "Octagon", which is undeniably its most photogenic feature. It was mesmerising and I managed to take one or two (dozen) photos of it on the day.

In yet another example of thoughtful Victorian design, the eight-sided structure is crowned by a cupola that allows the Octagon to be flooded with natural light, further enhancing its cathedral-like quality.

One of the highlights of our visit was seeing the Prince Consort engine up close and being able to see (and hear) it in operation. (See the enormous flywheel below). Look out for special Steam Days if you would like to see this part of the tour.

Beyond the engine house, there’s plenty more to explore. The Boiler House exhibition taught us all about John Snow, an anesthesiologist, who worked hard to identify the source of the cholera outbreak in 1854, ultimately discovering that it was a contaminated water pump on Broad Street. This was a crucial step towards better sanitation in London and the work Bazalgette did to prevent future outbreaks. There is also a display of Victorian-era toilets which was most entertaining.

Completed in 1865, Crossness Pumping Station turns 160 his year and is celebrating with special events throughout the year. Open days sell out quickly so be sure to visit the Crossness Pumping Station website to secure your ticket.

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Walking the Darent Valley Path from The Chequers to Dartford

Here's a little known fact about me: I get inordinately excited when planning walks and adventures. It makes sense, because I subsist on the memories of those adventures for days afterwards until I can start planning the next one. I was very busy with work in the week before we walked the Darent Valley Path from The Chequers pub back to Dartford, but dreaming of my upcoming walk got me through the week.

This sunny, late winter day is still making my heart sing.

We began by catching a taxi to The Chequers pub in Darenth. They were extremely busy inside with the Sunday lunch rush but we took a seat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed some shandies while soaking up the sunshine.

On leaving the pub, we turned left and walked a short way until we saw the signs for the Darenth Valley path. Once on the path, we followed the river Darent for a while. The path is well-kept but certainly wild.

We suddenly encountered a very boggy field with a well-worn path leading to the M25 underpass. We found we had to take a fainter route farther from the Darent to avoid the mud. Thankfully, my hiking boots survived the ordeal.

The underpass was one of my favourite parts of the journey. I loved the imaginative and bold murals decorating what would otherwise be a grey space.

I have no idea what Helch refers to but I'm sure it's of great importance.

Just before the path lead us back onto Hawley Road, we walked through this pretty little arch. I imagine it is quite beautiful in summer.

Once on Hawley Road, you turn right and need to walk under the A2 before joining the path again. Luckily it is well-signposted.

We really did pick a good day for it and wide open spaces like this make my heart soar.

There were distinctive Darent Valley Path signs along the way.

Soon we were walking alongside the Darent river again, with all its walkways and charm.

We finally arrived at Brooklands Lake, one of my favourite places in Dartford and where I take my walks and runs. (More walks now since I gave up running for Peloton training).

We met a pair of Canada Geese. These types of geese are very common after being introduced to the UK about 300 years ago.

We took the long path up from the lake to the main road. By this stage, the only thing keeping Stephen going was the promise of a pint at the end of the walk.

We stopped by the Ivy Leaf; this is such a lovely, friendly pub and is very dog friendly. We then stopped at The Rose on Overy Street. Sadly, their beautiful rose garden was still one week away from its spring opening. We sat on the patio, looking out over the beer garden, and enjoyed our drink while patrons inside enjoyed their Sunday lunch.

After 2.5 miles, we were back home, just in time to enjoy the stew I’d left bubbling away in the oven. I do love a longer walk, but if I want Stephen to join me next time, I’ll need to find a route with more pubs along the way. Here's hoping spring decides to show up for our next adventure!

If you're looking for a GPX file of the full 19 mile stretch of the Darent Valley Path from the bank of the River Thames at Dartford to Sevenoaks, I can recommend the Walking Englishman who has uploaded a file on his Darent Valley Path page. I downloaded and then saved the file to Garmin Connect - Training & Planning - Courses and can then use it for future walks along different stretches of the route.

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A Bookish Afternoon in Montevecchia

I want to share one of my favourite days in Italy last June - though, to be honest, every one of those five days felt like a favourite - but this one was especially good.

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A Sunday Morning in Westerham

If you’re searching for the perfect brunch spot in Kent, you really can’t do better than the charming town of Westerham. Quintessentially English and steeped in history, this little gem is full of big names and fascinating stories.

Westerham proudly claims James Wolfe, the British Army officer famed for his role in the Battle of Quebec, as one of its own. His childhood home, Quebec House, is open to visitors during the summer months. Helena Bonham Carter was also born here, adding a touch of Hollywood flair to the town’s legacy. But perhaps most notably, Winston Churchill’s beloved home, Chartwell, sits just outside Westerham. Operated by the National Trust, it’s a must-visit for history enthusiasts.

For me, however, Westerham holds a more personal significance. It was my first home when I returned to England in 2007. Back then, I found it less than welcoming, but I’m pleased to report that the town has since warmed up considerably.

Our visit began with brunch at the rather aptly named Brunch in Westerham.

Stephen opted for poached eggs and bacon with avocado, while I went for scallops and bacon. Both were delicious, but we couldn’t help eyeing Sarah’s crab on sourdough with a touch of food envy. The team at the restaurant were really friendly and managed the Sunday morning rush admirably.

After brunch, we decided to take a walk through the village. I'd always liked this little shopping arcade.

I pointed out the flat where I once lived—the four bottom-left windows in the building above were my uncle’s.

Looking up Vicarage Hill towards the green.

The facade of Westerham Evangelical Congregational Church.

We strolled along the narrow side streets, admiring the little shops and interesting sights.

I loved the combination of stone and red brick in this cottage, with its tidy cream front door.

I liked this Georgian red brick building with its black doors and white windows too.

Doesn't this shopfront make you want to buy - and eat - your body weight in chocolate?

I took so many photos around St. Mary's Church that I'm going to have to dedicate an entire post to it. The churchyard was very quaint.

We all agreed that we need to return one day to have afternoon tea at the Tudor Rose Tearoom.

On this occasion, we opted for pints in the Grasshopper on the Green Pub, which Sarah's father told her was the best pub in Westerham...

... probably on account of their excellent pies.

How sweet is this statue? Unmistakably Churchill. I'm so pleased we finally make it back to this little town. We'd been wanting to for years and we had a lovely morning out.

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