The Bernina Express: A Panoramic Train Through the Swiss Alps

I’ve found my new favourite rail journey. In November, we travelled on the famous Bernina Express, a panoramic train that runs from Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city, to the Italian Alpine town of Tirano. It’s an incredible experience offering uninterrupted views across the Swiss Alps, from glacial landscapes and snow-dusted peaks to winding viaducts and tiny Alpine hamlets.

Our train departed Chur at 8.17am on a freezing cold November morning. We were relieved to be allowed straight on board on arrival. The toasty interior was a welcome shelter from the cold, and our jackets were quickly relegated to the coat racks.

Within moments of departure, we were transported to a winter wonderland as the train travelled past snow-capped pine forests in misty valleys.

My goddaughter Keira and I had been excited for our journey on the Bernina Express, but nothing quite prepared us for the jaw-dropping vistas or outstanding beauty. Our mouths and eyes were wide open for much of the journey, and we had to actively stop ourselves from taking too many photos so we could simply sit back and enjoy the scenery.

We were allowed off the train at Alp Grüm. It was the first time Keira had seen so much snow and she couldn’t resist making snowballs.

I wish I could bottle the experience of breathing in that crisp, pure Alpine air, its clean scent cleansing the soul, and gazing upon those timeless mountains. These are the scenes I bring to mind now when I retreat to my happy place.

I’ve mentioned before that I’m a recent convert to cold-weather activities, only convinced after our trip to Bergen in December 2023 that I could survive subzero temperatures. It will come as no surprise to winter-activity enthusiasts that I enjoyed this Alpine experience so much I’ve started planning a beginner ski trip.

All too soon we returned to the train for the next leg of our journey as the Bernina Express winds its way into Italy.

We passed countless tiny villages and marvelled as the train travelled down the helical viaduct at Brusio.

Tips and Tricks for Journeys on the Bernina Express

Before booking your journey on the Bernina Express, definitely visit the excellent blog by The Man in Seat 61. In it, he shares tips on how to save on train tickets by booking from Germany,  as well as the importance of making a seat reservation on the Rhätische Bahn website if you want to travel in the panoramic carriages. All reserved tickets sell out early, so book as soon as you can, especially if you want First Class Tickets.

Mandy’s Top Tip

If I had to do this again (and I hope to one day do the journey from Tirano back to Chur), I would choose carefully which side of the carriage to sit on. If you are journeying from Chur to Tirano, the iconic viaduct views will be on the right-hand side of the train, so the best seats are window seats on the right of the carriage, facing forward. If you are travelling from Tirano to Chur, the viaduct curves to the left, so the best seats are forward-facing seats on the left of the carriage.

Pack sunglasses. You won’t believe how sunny it can be in the Alps. I had pale, pink-tinted sunglasses that were perfect for wearing inside the train and helped prevent headaches from the glare.

Take Your Time

Consider lingering longer. It is definitely possible to fly into Zurich on one day and out of Milan the next day, with a day spent on the Bernina Express. But in my next post, I will tell you about our six day itinerary and my inspiration for both taking the trip and for slowing it down.

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Hot Air Balloons & Spa Days: 36 Hours in Bath

Oh, for the love of an August bank holiday weekend! With a long weekend stretching ahead of us, and the satisfaction of meeting a major deadline on Wednesday, Stephen and I couldn’t resist the allure of a short escape. On Thursday morning, we set off bright and early for two nights in Bath. It was the type of perfect timing with enough of a getaway to recharge, yet two extra days to rewind when we returned home.

Two days in Bath is never quite enough, but this was not our first visit, and we made sure to make the most of every moment. So, come along with me as I recount how we spent 36 hours in this beautiful city.

An Afternoon Walk Through Bath

Arriving in the late afternoon, we freshened up quickly before taking a leisurely walk into Bath. Our walk took us past Sydney Gardens and onto Great Pulteney Street, before turning towards St Michael's Church and on to Broad Street.

In the photo above, to the left of St Michael's Church, you can see the Old Post Office, which will be the new home of the Fashion Museum Bath. Don’t plan your trip just yet though, construction only begins in 2027 with opening planned in 2030.

Dinner at the Coconut Tree

We were spoilt for choice when it came to dinner options but chose the Coconut Tree as neither of us had sampled Sri Lankan food before. We had the most superb meal with fantastic service, and are now wholeheartedly converted to Sri Lankan food. (Excellent timing too as two Sri Lankan restaurants have opened in my hometown of Dartford).

My favourite items were the Negombo Fish Curry (a delicate white fish wrapped in a coconut leaf), Devilled Prawns, Cheesy Colombo, and Egg Hopper. Described as a ‘must-have for first timers’, this last dish is a bowl-shaped coconut-milk pancake served with an egg and Sri Lankan condiments.

A Twilight Walk Through Parade Gardens

The light was beautiful when we emerged from the restaurant and we decided to take a nice, long walk back to our hotel through Parade Gardens. I was quite taken by Newbury Abbot Trent's Angel of Peace memorial to King Edward VII.

Bath was celebrating 250 years of Jane Austen last year with events throughout the year, leading up a Yuletide Jane Austen Birthday Ball in December. Fear not if you missed out, there is an annual Jane Austen festival that runs every year throughout September.

Looking down the river Avon towards North Parade Bridge. I'd love to stay on one of those houseboats.

I wondered why there is a statue of Mozart as a young boy in Bath's Parade Gardens. Mozart never visited the city, but the statue was commissioned following the deathbed wishes of one Mrs Purnell. The statue was created in bronze and Bath stone by David Backhouse to honour her music-loving son Mark Purnell who passed away in 1985. These days, an annual Mozartfest is held in Bath each November.

Finally, the crowds dispersed a little and we were able to get a glimpse of our reason for visiting the gardens: the famous Pulteney Bridge. Very few bridges with buildings on them remain in England, or indeed anywhere in the world. The bridge itself doesn't look like much when you're on it (hence the lack of photos), but seeing it from a distance gives an idea of its charm.

As we emerged from the gardens, we looked up to see hot air balloons in the sky around Bath Abbey.

We took one last look up the river Avon towards Pulteney Bridge, again admiring the river boats, before making our way across North Parade Bridge.

As we continued past the cricket and rugby grounds towards the hotel, we spotted the hot air balloons high in the sky above Bath.

A Spa Day at MacDonald Bath Spa Hotel

After a leisurely lie-in the next morning followed by breakfast, we made our way to the spa for a Signature Spa Day. We were delighted to discover an outdoor area where we could lounge beneath giant parasols, a first for me on the British Isles where it usually wouldn't be warm enough for such a treat. From time to time we relaxed in the al fresco hydrotherapy pool, enjoying gentle massages from the heated water jets.

At noon, we made our way to the treatment rooms where we each enjoyed a one hour massage and a half hour facial. The treatments were superb and Stephen really enjoyed his first facial experience. The relaxation area in the spa also notably calm and soothing.

Afternoon Tea at MacDonald Bath Spa Hotel

Our afternoon tea was scheduled for 3pm and we stepped into an elegant space with high ceilings, classic furnishings, and soft, natural light filtering through tall sash windows.

We ordered our teas from the large selection, Birchall's red berry loose leaf tea for me to cleanse my pallet ahead of the sweet treats to come.

I'm usually a fan of the savoury part of an afternoon tea, but on this occasion, the warm, fluffy scones stole the show as did the top tier of sweet treats. All the desserts were beautifully balanced in sweetness. The Victoria sponge was light and fluffy, the chocolate fudge cake was rich and deeply chocolatey, and the cherry tart was simply divine.

Following our afternoon tea, we returned to the spa to enjoy the last few hours of sunshine and warmth. I managed to finish an entire book that day, and so it felt just like we'd been on holiday!

Staying at MacDonald Bath Spa Hotel

I don’t often dwell on hotel interiors or experiences on this blog, but the aesthetic at the Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel was too charming to ignore. Elegant spaces with classic English furnishings, polished wood, ornate vases and a curated collection of paintings give the place a refined yet welcoming feel. We began planning our next visit to a spa hotel in the MacDonald group that very evening. Blissfully relaxed and revitalised after our lovely day, we returned to our room for an afternoon nap. What a perfect couple of days!

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Life Is What Happens...

… when you’re busy making other plans.

Well that was unexpected! The past six months have been some of the most challenging and rewarding, but they've also been fairly all-consuming. I’m always conscious that I landed my dream job but I do have to balance that with how relentlessly demanding it is.

On top of that, the last quarter of last year included some pretty incredible travel experiences with four countries visited in three months!

Even I can admit that burning the candle on both ends is on brand for me

Before I knew it, six months had passed and I hadn't posted on this blog. The longer I left it, the harder it felt to explain the gap. I've even had a fully written post about our time in Bath sitting in my drafts all this time.

It feels like I’ve been trying to catch my breath for months but I’m happy to say things are finally starting to settle down.

So I’m easing myself back into writing and exploring again, and I’m really looking forward to catching up on everyone else’s adventures. I’ll do my best not to disappear again.

First, though, a little glimpse of what I've been up to all this time.

August

A long weekend in Bath & Salisbury

September

Twelve days in Nea Vrasna in Halkidiki, Greece.

October

A weekend in Budapest.

November

Six wonderful days where we travelled from Zurich to Tirano on the Bernina Express before spending time in Milan.

December

Spending lots of time with family and seeing Ebony Scrooge at Sadler Wells in Stratford.

January

A six mile walk from Gravesend to the Higham marshes and back to Gravesend for the winter lights festival.

February

Catching Tessa Campbell Fraser's Whales at Rochester Cathedral.

March

A visit to the Historic Dockyard Chatham to catch the Call the Midwife tour.

Let me know what you’d most like to read about and I’ll post about that first!

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Gardens of Villa Melzi: A Lake Como Treasure

I've tried many times to compose this post in my mind but struggled each time. How do you express that you visited the most exquisite gardens in Italy when you know that you cannot do them justice? Known in English as the Villa Melzi Gardens, i Giardini di Villa Melzi d'Eril are located on the shore of Lake Como in Bellagio and feature a neoclassical villa, acres of carefully appointed gardens, and an impressive selection of sculptures.

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A Saturday in London: Just for One Day: The Live Aid Musical

Last Saturday, we planned the quintessential London day. We took a stroll down Oxford Street, had lunch in Soho and spent an afternoon watching Just for One Day: The Live Aid Musical at the Shaftesbury Theatre.

It was a lovely day, the perfect day for wandering about, and it was thankfully cooler than it had been earlier in the summer.

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