Thursday, February 09, 2012

St Edmundsbury Cathedral, Bury St Edmunds

Eastern face of St Edmundsbury Cathedral

Throughout our exploration of The Ruins of the Abbey of St Edmund, we could see St Edmundsbury Cathedral in the near distance.  Like the houses I showed you at the end of the post on the ruins, the cathedral stands right alongside them.  An important destination for pilgrims from the 11th to the 16th century, all that remains of the Abbey at Bury St Edmunds, the wealthiest and most powerful Benedictine monastery in England, is St Edmundsbury Cathedral, St Mary’s Church and the Abbey Gate and Norman Tower.

St Edmundsbury Cathedral

The story of St Edmundsbury Cathedral is really fascinating.  The part of the cathedral that most captured my imagination, both inside and out was the Millennium Tower but as you can judge from the name, it is the most recent addition to the cathedral, completed only in 2005.  In truth, the construction of the church was never completed and it remained incomplete for 450 years.

St Edmundsbury Cathedral 2

When St James's Church was merely a parish church located in the complex of the majestic Abbey of St Edmund, it was deemed unnecessary to add another tower.  The Victorians began restoring cathedrals but never cast their eye on this parish church.  When St James's Church became the Cathedral Church of the Anglican Diocese of St Edmundsbury and Ipswich in 1914, it became clear that the cathedral would need to be completely restored.

St Edmundsbury Cathedral 3

The upheaval and financial strain of the First and Second World Wars meant that work only began in earnest in 1959.  Stephen Dykes Bower had been appointed architect in 1943 and when he died in 1994, he left £2 million to a Trust for the completion of the cathedral.  They also received another boost in 1997 when the Millennium Commission granted £5.15 million.  It seems that the cathedral would finally be completed after 450 years and construction of the tower began in 2001.

Tower at St Edmundsbury Cathedral

I stood looking at the tower for a very, very long time.  A local couple could obviously see my interest in it because they came over to me to chat.  They must have read my wondering mind because they confirmed that the  weather veins are solid gold.  They also pointed out that you can see the letter E (for St Edmund) on the face of the tower, just below the battlements.  It is in gothic uncial script, which was popular in medieval England, and is endowed with a crown.

I really love that they remained so faithful to the medieval gothic style when building the tower.  In fact, they clad the outside of the tower with the distinctive stone from Barnack and Clipsham to ensure that it blended in with the rest of the building.

South West Tower of St Edmunds Abbey

In the background of the photo above, you can see the post-medieval houses that were built into the remains of the south west tower and walls of St Edmunds Abbey.  I find that quite mercenary and opportunistic, even for the English whose history can be quite gruesome and horrible at times!

Monument to the Protestant Martyrs

Just before we went inside the cathedral, we noticed the Martyr’s Monument.  You will find these memorials located around England to remember the protestant martyrs who were killed during the reign of Queen Mary I for their protestant beliefs.  Mary I wanted to return England to Roman Catholicism and her gruesome campaign earned her the name of Bloody Mary.

Martyrs Monument Detail

This monument remembers 17 protestant martyrs from Bury St Edmunds who died between 1555 and 1558.  The monument was paid for by public subscriptions and was only erected in 1903.  It seems like many of the martyr’s monuments were erected during Victorian times.  I wonder why it took them so long but also why it seemed important to them at that time, four centuries later?

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Friday, January 20, 2012

The Ruins of the Abbey of St Edmund

Wall of Abbot's Garden and Dovecote

The Abbey of St Edmund was not a just building but almost a town in itself.  The ruins lie sprawling over a massive area and you can see the remains of not only the church but also of the infirmary, dormitories, cloisters and priory.  It is obvious that the abbey was quite magnificent and it is heartbreaking that it fell victim to Henry VIII’s notorious Suppression of the Monasteries in 1539.

In the photo above, you can see the remains of the garden wall of the abbot’s garden (left) and the dovecote (or pigeon house).  The abbot lived apart from the other monks in his own palace but the abbot’s palace is now completely demolished. 

It was a grey, cold and cloudy day on the day we visited, so do click on the photos to see more detail.

The buildings above were located on the edges of the complex, between the abbot’s palace and the church.  I think they may have been the monks' dormitories.

Northern Transept of Bury St Edmunds Abbey

The Abbey of St Edmund was built on a cruciform plan in the early 1100s.  In the photo above, you can see the north transept of the abbey with the St Edmundsbury Cathedral peeking out to the west.

The Apse of Abbey of St Edmunds

This is the east-facing apse of the abbey where the shrine of St Edmund was located behind the high altar. 

Do click on the photo below to see the 19th century historical marker. It looks like these plaques were installed in 1842 and I find it interesting that the ruins would been as inspiring to visitors 170 years ago as they are today.

Observance of Magna Carta Bury St Edmunds Abbey

In 1214, it was at the altar of the Abbey of St Edmund that 25 barons swore to obtain the ratification of the Magna Carta from King John.

North Transept of Abbey of St Edmunds

This is the north transept of the abbey taken from inside the church.

Priors Garden Walls at Bury St Edmunds Abbey

This is all that remains of the walls of the prior’s garden.

The Chapter House at the Abbey of St Edmunds

The chapter house is one of the more exciting parts of the ruins for it is where the remains of several of the Abbey’s abbots are located.  A manuscript discovered at the end of the 19th century revealed that eighteen of the abbots were buried in the chapter house and the coffins and remains of five of the abbots were revealed to the public in 1903. 

The Graves of the Abbots Bury St Edmunds Abbey

Thankfully, the coffins were closed again and today, you can see the five graves.  In the photo above, I have featured the grave of the abbot Samson who lived from 1182 to 1211.

Old and New St Edmunds Abbey

One of the strangest aspects of the ruins is that houses have been built right against them.  I think this reveals the selective nature of the decline of the abbey and it is strange that it was allowed to fall into such a state of ruin while the houses and  St Edmundsbury Cathedral remain.

During Henry VIII’s reign, the cathedral was known as St James’s Church and it was located within the precinct of the abbey.  It was first built in the 12th century but was largely rebuilt in 1503.  At the time of the Suppression of the Monasteries, St James's Church was a parish church, which I believe is linked to its survival. It is now a Church of England cathedral.

Houses built against ruins at St Edmunds Abbey

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Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Abbey Gate and Norman Tower, Bury St Edmunds

Abbey Gate - Bury St Edmunds

In December, we spent a week at Swilland Mill in Suffolk and visited the historic town of Bury St Edmunds.  The primary attraction was the ruins of the Abbey of Bury St Edmunds which was once one of the richest Benedictine  monastries in England but which fell into ruin following Henry VIII’s Suppression of the Monasteries in 1539.

Abbey Gate detail

Today, Abbey Gate and the Norman Tower are the only two surviving buildings which could give an idea of the magnificence of the Abbey of St Edmund. 

Abbey Gate close up

The Abbey Gate is the entrance to the Great Court.  The original gate probably stood slightly to the left but it was damaged in 1327 when the townspeople revolted, plundered the abbey and kidnapped the abbot. 

Abbey Gate closeup

The existing Abbey Gate was rebuilt in 1347 and is quite beautiful.

Inside Abbey Gate - Bury St Edmunds

It has battlements, a portcullis and arrow slits in the walls.

Inside Abbey Gate

It is just a pity that for all its defensive features, the Abbey Gate provided no defence when Henry VIII went on his rampage against the monasteries.

Abbey Gate Wall


The Norman Tower and Gatehouse lies further to the south of Abbey Gate, on the other side of the present-day St Edmundsbury Cathedral (dedicated as the Cathedral Church of St James and St Edmund).

The Norman Tower

Norman Gate was built by Abbot Anselm between 1120 and 1148 and it was the principle gateway into the abbey precinct.  The belfry is still in use today and serves the cathedral.

Entrance to the Norman Tower and Gatehouse

The Norman Tower and gatehouse is four-storeys high and is virtually unchanged from its 12th century state.

The Norman Tower and Gatehouse Bury St Edmunds Abbey

How magnificent is that?  I love Norman architecture.  Next time I will take you through the ruins of the abbey.

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Thursday, October 06, 2011

A Weekend at Swilland Mill, Suffolk

I know, I know. I've been a bad blogger but can you blame me with this unseasonably warm weather?  As the Real Autumn* begins to descend upon us, I look back on the last, beautiful weekend of the summer.

Swilland Mill

Can you believe that this photo was taken in October in Suffolk, England?  October is traditionally the rainiest month in Suffolk with temperatures averaging 15°c.  A group of friends and colleagues went up to Swilland Mill to celebrate my friend Kate’s Hen Party (also known as a bachelorette party).  We were blessed with incredible weather with temperatures soaring into the late 20s and clear, sunny skies.

We had a fabulous weekend with lots of karaoke, Prosecco and food.  We also had an Ann Summers party, Butler-in-the-Buff and a very swanky murder mystery dinner.  I am pleased to say that this time, it wasn’t me!  I was having far too much fun during the weekend to take any photos (and what happens at the Hen’s Party stays at the Hen’s Party) but I certainly fell in love with the venue.

Swilland Mill was one of the largest post mills ever built in Suffolk and they suspect that it might have been the largest ever built anywhere.  It was built around 1800 and first appeared on local maps in 1825.  They stopped using the mill in the 1930s and it fell into disrepair after the war until the 1970s when it was used by a local potter.  You can read all about the history of the mill here: History of Swilland Mill.

Today, Swilland Mill is comprised of three luxury apartments (if you can call 3-4 story luxury accommodation ‘apartments’). They have been exquisitely refurbished and decorated and I guess it is no surprise that I enjoyed it so much there that I have booked a week’s holiday there just before Christmas. We were going to take Ste’s parent’s on a road trip around Suffolk and Norwich anyway, and now we are going to do something similar but just have a base up there from which to travel.

The Mylen at Swilland Mill

Can you blame me for liking it so much?  I love that there are pieces of old mill equipment located around the apartments.  We got to explore all three apartments this weekend and the one I have booked over December has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a lounge with flat screen TV and DVDs and a gorgeous kitchen.  It is perfect for a winter getaway with the family.


*The Real Autumn is distinguished from the Unreal Autumn that we had in September in that this time, it won’t be followed by a glorious week of beautiful blue skies, hot sunshine and summer dresses.  I am quite confident in saying that today was the last day for 6 months that I will go to work without a jacket and long sleeved shirt on.

I’m really excited for this autumn and winter and am looking forward to colourful winter clothing, Christmas markets, two weddings, visits from my South African family, blogger’s outings and X Factor and Merlin.  Of course, that also comes with colder weather and the inexplicable increase in my appetite, rain, two exams and craziness at work.  What do you have planned for this season?

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© 2008 - Mandy Southgate | Emm in London

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