Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Walking the Red Trail at the Giant's Causeway

We recently spent the most incredible weekend in Northern Ireland. We were based near Ballycastle and had spent the Saturday in Mussenden Temple and Lissanoure Castle for the wedding of my lovely friend Liz and Stewart. The wedding was a fabulous all-day affair where we ate, drank and ate some more. Suffice to say, we needed to air out the cobwebs on Sunday morning and headed to the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim.

We chose the Red Trail which promised a 3 mile walk with spectacular views away from the crowds of people heading straight to the Causeway steps. The Red Trail itself is 2 miles but joins up with the Blue Trail which is 0.8 miles.

While we could see people on the Blue Trail below, we were quite alone on the Red Trail and were able to see right around us from the sea to our left, the hills and greenery on the trail, and fields and farms to our right.

The Red Trail is well-signposted which means that I didn’t manage to get us lost and take us on a detour, something which I am becoming quite known for.

We couldn’t have picked a better day for our walk. There was a slight wind which meant we weren’t too warm but we could definitely feel the effects of the vitamin D seeping into our bodies. Spring came late to my corner of England this year so this was a much-appreciated change.

We soon came to the Shepherd’s Steps which is 162 steps leading down the cliff. We met some very tired people near the top of the steps who were walking the route in reverse. They were clearly fit and healthy but also clearly struggling to climb the steps with massive backpacks on their backs!

Note! If you carry on straight at Shepherd’s Steps instead of climbing down them, you can follow the Yellow Trail to get an aerial view of the Amphitheatre. We did not realise this and now I have to go back one day to see it!

We continued our walk along the Red Trail, past the Organ and to the end of the path. It's difficult to describe how massive the Organ is - it is very tall with a narrow path before it and I had to crouch down to get its full height in this photo.

Turning back, we joined the Blue Trail and found ourselves at sea level.

I loved how calm and idyllic the area is. It was quiet too. Stephen and I wondered how many creatures make their home here in an area that clearly takes a battering when the weather turns.

As we approached the Giant's Causeway, we met this imposing wall of rock. It feels so majestic and grand – I can see why people believed the area to have been touched by giants. (This is probably not the time to mention that Stephen had believed the area to be man-made before we visited it).

We finally made it to the famous steps. I found it difficult to take inspiring photos in the glaring midday sunshine and momentarily wished for stormy, imposing weather. Now that I think about it, I’d wish a hundred times over for clear skies, incredible views and a long walk in the sunshine over a moody five minutes on the steps. Indeed, my Northern Irish friend Jude assures me that Giant’s Causeway is far more fun in the sunshine.

We continued along the Blue Trail back to the entrance and then stopped off for a shandy and delicious open face prawn sandwich at the Nook pub. Highly recommended!

Tips for visiting the Giant’s Causeway: it is free to walk along the trails and on the Giant’s Causeway. You do not need to purchase a ticket to the visitors centre but you can make a donation if you’d like to contribute to the upkeep of the area and maintenance of the trails.

Parking at the Giant’s Causeway: you can park at the visitors centre for £5 but it can fill up. We chose to park a short walk down the road at Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Railway, 6 Runkerry Rd, Bushmills BT57 8SZ. We will definitely be taking a trip on that railway next time we visit!

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Friday, January 31, 2014

Where to Stay in Belfast: Culloden Estate and Spa

Culloden Estate and Spa

On our final night in Northern Ireland, we were fortunate to stay in the beautiful 5 star Culloden Estate and Spa situated high in the Holywood Hills, overlooking the Belfast Lough. This magnificent estate spans over 12 acres and was originally built in 1876 as an official Palace for the Bishops of Down and is now part of the Hasting Hotels group.

The foyer of the Culloden Estate and Spa

The atmosphere in the Culloden is one of prestige and elegance. From the moment I walked through the doors, I knew that this is exactly where I wanted to be shortly before Christmas, relaxing with a hot drink by the fireplace or taking long walks through the extensive and pristine grounds. Everywhere I looked, the decor and design was just so, beautifully thought out and stylish.

Stylish bathrooms in the Culloden

We were taken up to our room by the porter and I have to admit that neither Kat nor I were expecting a suite. We stayed in the Muirfield Suite and as you can see from the photos below, it was simply elegant.

Muirfield Suite Culloden

The suite featured a large room with twin beds, fireplace, sofas and dining table, overlooking the grounds of the Culloden. The entrance featured spacious double wardrobes, luggage racks and lead off to a large bathroom with a bath and shower.

Egyptian cotton linen at the Culloden

Special mention has to go to the bed. With Egyptian cotton linen and a Cloud Bed with deep pillow top layer, this was simply the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in. I felt like I was floating and I have to admit that all I wanted to do after breakfast the next morning was snuggle back into that bed.

Chandelier in the Muirfield suite, Culloden

The entrance to the Muirfield Suite, Culloden

Design and decor, Muirfield Suite, Culloden

View of Muirfield Suite, Culloden

The Culloden is what I like to think of as a destination hotel – it is the type of establishment that you visit for its own sake and not simply as a place to sleep. There is so much to do here if you’re looking for a nice, relaxing winter getaway and I have no doubt that it will be even more lovely during the summer months. Despite our relatively short stay, we enjoyed cocktails in the Crozier Lounge while listening to a live jazz trio, we took a walk around the grounds and drank in views of the County Antrim coastline, we spent a morning relaxing in the spa and we enjoyed a superb afternoon tea. Did we wish that our stay had been a little bit longer? Of course we did.

I will definitely return to the Culloden one day and I can’t wait to take Stephen there. Despite its luxury and opulence, the Culloden is surprisingly reasonable and they frequently offer packages and special offers which include meals and a full Irish breakfast.

Be sure to come back in February when I will take you on a tour of the grounds and gardens of the Culloden Estate.

Culloden Estate and Spa
Bangor Road, Holywood, Belfast, BT18 OEX
028 9042 1066
http://www.hastingshotels.com/culloden-estate-and-spa/

Room rate: from £165 for a double room, bed and breakfast.

We were guests of Hasting Hotels and Tourism Ireland during our stay in Belfast. As always, I promise to share sincere and honest opinions with my readers.

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Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Where to Stay in Belfast: Europa Hotel

Europa Hotel Belfast

On our first night in Belfast, we were fortunate to stay in the Europa hotel, the flagship hotel of Hastings Hotels. Situated on Great Victoria Street, Belfast, the Europa Belfast is in a fantastic location right in the centre of the city, within walking distance of all the major attractions.

Festive Europa Belfast

We arrived shortly before Christmas and the atmosphere at the Europa was electric. There were many Christmas parties going on and the guests were all dressed up and glamorous but it wasn’t just that. We spent some time in the Piano lounge and enjoyed drinks in the laid back yet upmarket atmosphere.

 Europa Hotel colourful history

The history of the Europa Belfast is really fascinating. The hotel was built on the site of the former Great Northern Railway Station and it opened in 1971. A lot of journalists stayed here during the Troubles and it used to hold the record as the most bombed hotel in the world. Like a phoenix from the ashes, the Europa has risen from this colurful past to become one of Belfast’s most important hotels. In was the hotel that President Bill Clinton and First Lady Hillary Clinton stayed in in 1995 and they have maintained their relationship with the Clinton’s to this day.

Comfortable Europa Hotel Belfast

We really impressed with the comfort of the Europa Belfast. The rooms were spacious and stylish and we especially appreciated the little touches like mince pies in our room. The bathroom was complete with a bath and a shower which you don't always see in hotels these days and we loved our Hastings Hotel ducky! Can I just say that the shower was absolutely incredible and possibly the best shower I’ve had in my life. I felt like I had a full body massage and could have stayed in there for hours. After the enjoyable nights sleep I’d had, I emerged feeling completely rejuvenated.

Hastings Hotel ducky

One of the most outstanding features of the Europa Belfast was the food. We were lucky enough to enjoy a festive afternoon tea there but what really stood out in my mind was the breakfast. Like most of the food at the Europa, the food is locally sourced and we were given a full breakdown of everything that we enjoyed. I had a full Irish breakfast and especially enjoyed the Carnbrooke Meats Honeybee Sausages, the Moyallon Dry Cured Bacon and the Gracehill Fine Foods Black Pudding.

Would I stay in the the Europa hotel Belfast again? Absolutely. The location and food would be enough to bring me back but the atmosphere will make for really special memories and I would love to take Stephen there. Besides, I have to try that shower again.

Europa Hotel, Belfast
Great Victoria St, Belfast BT2 7AP
028 9027 1066
http://www.hastingshotels.com/europa-belfast/

Room rate: from £110 for a twin or double room.

We were guests of Hasting Hotels and Tourism Ireland during our stay in Belfast. As always, I promise to share sincere and honest opinions with my readers.

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Sunday, December 29, 2013

A Festive Afternoon Tea at the Europa Hotel, Belfast

Festive afternoon tea - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

During our stay in Northern Ireland, Kat and I were treated to a festive afternoon tea in the Europa Hotel, located right in the centre of Belfast. We were entertained by the pianist in The Piano Lounge while we relaxed in comfortable chairs overlooking Belfast’s Great Victoria Street.

Thomsons family teas - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

Our afternoon tea experience began with an introduction to the selection of 10 Thompson’s Family Teas, grandly displayed on a trolley. I must say, I found this quite exciting. See, I’d spotted the trolley the evening before but hasn’t realised these were teas. In fact, I had mistaken them for elaborate bar snacks and am so glad I didn’t dip my hand in and try any of them. As our hostess Helen McCune discussed each of the teas with us, she allowed us to sample the aroma of each in turn. Strangely enough, she thought we wouldn’t want to smell the rooibos and orange tea but being South African, that was my favourite and smelled like a little piece of home!

Mumm Champagne - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

Once we had chosen our teas and opted to take champagne, our selection of festive finger sandwiches, pastries and cakes was brought to us on a delightfully modern three-tier stand.

Afternoon tea cake stand - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

The finger sandwiches were divine. I was really pleased that for once, salmon was not served but prawn and lobster instead. I am allergic to salmon but can eat prawn and lobster in limited quantities.

Finger sandwiches - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

The finger sandwiches were served on Irwin’s Fresh Breads and in addition to the prawn and lobster, we enjoyed the Givan’s clove baked ham with wholegrain mustard, County Down roast turkey with savoury stuffing, and free range egg with spring onion and rocket. Our favourite was certainly the roast turkey, so much so that we asked for a second portion and barely left room for the pastries and scones.

Glass teapots - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

One of the best aspects of the afternoon tea at the Europa Hotel Belfast is that guests are encouraged to sample as many of the teas as they so desire. Naturally, I began with the Rooibos with Orange, a delicately subtle tea, blended with orange and vanilla. It was delicious and I consumed the whole pot. With our scones, I enjoyed the Earl Grey Special and I finished off with the Florida Fruit Tea, a zesty infusion with orange, apple, papaya and rosebud seeds which proved an excellent accompaniment to the pastries.

Scones - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

We were treated to both plain and cranberry scones which were light and fluffy. Kat was a little concerned that they were served with buttered cream rather than clotted cream but to be honest, I prefer them that way.

We were also served traditional Christmas cake, miniature mince pies, Armagh apple and cinnamon sponge cake, gingerbread cupcakes and, by far my favourite, a Christmas trifle. Thank goodness we were encouraged to take our time because we were certainly full by the end of the meal.

Afternoon tea - Europa Belfast afternoon tea

As you may have noticed throughout my post, the produce at the Europa Hotel Belfast is all locally sourced and some items, for example the Thompson’s Family teas, were selected specially for Hastings Hotels. What impressed us most about the afternoon tea is how well-thought-out each aspect of the experience is from the teas to the delicious and interesting sandwiches to the selection of pastries and sweets. We appreciated the generosity of the portions and the offer of more sandwiches, which we gladly accepted. We especially appreciated the chance to sample a selection of teas and the chance to choose each tea according to our tastes.

All of these factors make the Afternoon Tea at Europa Hotel one of the best that I have experienced. I enjoyed it so much that I would love to return one day with my mother for one of our frequent afternoons off together.

 

Europa Hotel, Belfast
Great Victoria St, Belfast BT2 7AP
028 9027 1066
http://www.hastingshotels.com/europa-belfast/

Cost: Afternoon Tea £20, Champagne Afternoon Tea £28
Open: daily from 2pm to 5pm.

We were guests of Hasting Hotels and Tourism Ireland during our stay in Belfast. As always, I promise to share sincere and honest opinions with my readers.

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Friday, December 20, 2013

The Colours and Aromas of Belfast Christmas Market

Long before we visited the Belfast Christmas Market at City Hall, I knew to expect something special. The market had been recommended to us no less than four times and with each recommendation there was a sense of pride and appreciation. Then again, you will soon notice in Belfast that the locals love their city and they are keen to share that love with visitors. It worked because we loved Belfast and we loved the bright colours and alluring aromas of the Belfast Christmas Market.

Confectionary Belfast Christmas Market

As we walked through the grand gates into the grounds of Belfast City Hall, we were met with the most alluring aroma of all – warm maple syrup. The aroma was so rich that it made us kind of heady; I was able to identify the aroma but simply unable to detect where it was coming from. We were soon able to escape from the spell and began to make our way deeper into the market.

Piece of Cake at Belfast Christmas Market

The first person we met was the lovely Hannah from the Piece of Cake Bakery. Hannah was more than happy to chat to us and agreed to let us take photos of her stall. I was dying to try some of her gluten-free goodies but we knew that we had afternoon tea coming up.

Scones at Belfast Christmas Market

Don’t Hannah’s scones just look delicious? They were well-priced too. We noticed that everything in Belfast was affordable compared to our inflated London prices.

Senegalese bags and toys at Belfast Christmas Market

Our next stop was the Afrik’ Art stall featuring bags and wooden toys all the way from Senegal. You can mix and match the letters of the alphabet to make up little letter trains – what a fabulous gift for a young child!

Senegalese wooden toys at Belfast Christmas Market

We soon spotted a sign for real hot chocolate for only £1 which we couldn’t resist. While Kat braved the queue for the hot chocolate, I made myself useful and took photos of the stall.

Real chocolate at Belfast Christmas Market

Taking photos became slightly more difficult once I was holding my cup of hot chocolate in one hand and attempting to hold the hood of my parka up with the other. It had started to rain and we knew that we’d soon have to come in out of the cold.

Cheese at Belfast Christmas Market

I solved my problem by inhaling my hot chocolate, something I would later regret when I was unable to have two of everything at our afternoon tea. We also stood for a time under cover as the worst of the sudden rain shower passed.

The Merry Monk Bier Bar at Belfast Christmas Market

As we wound our way towards the exit, we were happy to drink in the colours and sights of the market. Everything we saw was inviting and colourful…

The Cheese Board at Belfast Christmas Market

…from fiery dragon and whisky ginger flavoured cheese…

Clothing at Belfast Christmas Market

… to rich and brightly coloured clothing and tiny scrap iron metal sculptures from Roans Art

Wall-E at Belfast Christmas Market

…to hazelnut and green pepper salami (which was simply delicious!)

Sausages at Belfast Christmas Market

Everywhere we met, people were friendly and really interested to learn about the pair from New Zealand and South Africa who had arrived in their city via London. I noticed that it wasn’t just the locals that were so curious and friendly, it was everyone including the Senegalese woman we met and the owner of the salami store who was Italian. We concluded that it is simply the atmosphere of the city and the people as a whole are friendlier, relaxed and more open. It was a lovely experience.

The Belfast Christmas Market at the City Hall runs until tomorrow, 22 December. If you are planning your trip to Belfast in 2014, be sure to visit by the last weekend before Christmas to ensure that you catch the market.

Have you noticed that there is no collective noun for the people of Belfast? I’m not the only person who has noticed this and In Your Pocket City Guides have conducted some research into what you might call the people of Belfast. I think I’ll stick with ‘the lovely people of Belfast’ because they are from Belfast and they are indeed lovely.

What are the people from your city called? I was a Jo’burger in South Africa and a Londoner now.

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Monday, December 16, 2013

48 Hours in Belfast

Christmas at Europa Hotel Belfast

This weekend, I spent a fabulous 48 hours in the Northern Ireland city of Belfast with the lovely Kat from Lady Loves Cake. I’m going to tell you all about our stay in the next couple of weeks but I thought I’d give you a quick idea of all there is to do in this friendly and enchanting city. First, let me share some valuable advice:

  • 48 hours is not nearly enough to spend in Belfast. If you have planned a weekend of leisure and relaxation as we did, it is entirely possible that you won’t have enough time to take in all the sights. That said, I wouldn’t change our weekend for the world and I’ve returned to London feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.
  • If you’re visiting Belfast, you must pack walking shoes! Belfast is a compact city and it is really easy to get around on foot. High heeled, knee high boots might look great, but your feet will not be very happy once you reach the 5km mark.
  • Compared to London, taxis in Belfast are really affordable. There are also bus and train routes across the city. If you are short of time like we were, consider catching a taxi or bus. To give you an idea, we caught taxis both to and from the airport as well as between our hotels and each trip was about £8.50. Obviously, the more of you there are, the more affordable this becomes.

Getting to Belfast from London

I’m always on the lookout for destinations that I can easily visit in a weekend and getting to Belfast was extremely easy. We caught the Gatwick Express from Blackfriars after work on Friday and then caught the 19:40 Flybe flight to Belfast City. We learned at the airport that the Flybe service might be changing in 2014 but there are also reasonable easyJet and Aer Lingus flights from Gatwick, Heathrow, Stansted and Luton which fly to both Belfast City and Belfast International.

There is no shortage of things to do while in Belfast and I will absolutely be returning. However, if it is a weekend of luxury and relaxation that you are after, might I suggest that you follow our itinerary?

The Piano Lounge at the Europa Hotel

Drinks in The Piano Lounge at the Europa Hotel

The strains of laughter and piano music could be heard as we made our way up the circular staircase to The Piano Lounge at the Europa Hotel. The atmosphere was festive and every seat in the lounge was filled with groups relaxing before or after Christmas functions. We soon found a seat by the window overlooking Belfast’s most famous pub, the Crown Liquor Saloon and we chatted the night away while Belfast’s best December weather blustered away outside.

The Christmas Market at City Hall Belfast

Take a walk around Belfast

With everything in Belfast so conveniently central, it makes perfect sense to explore the city centre and surrounds by foot. You can head south to the Ulster Museum and Belfast Botanical Gardens, both of which have free entry or you can head north east to waterfront to visit the brand new Titanic Quarter and Titanic Experience. We had so little time that we opted to head east to see the murals in the Falls Road and then we headed back into the city centre to spend a far more festive time in the Christmas Market at City Hall.

Afternoon tea at Europa Hotel

Enjoy a Festive Afternoon Tea in the Europa Hotel

The first thing you will notice at afternoon tea at the Europa Hotel is how well thought out and intentional each part of your experience is. Helen McCune was on hand to explain every choice between the impressive selection of 10 Thompson’s Family Teas, the locally-sourced produce and the seasonal afternoon tea menu variations. Look out for the superb County Down roast turkey finger sandwiches with savoury stuffing – we had to ask for a second serving!

The Crozier Lounge at the Culloden Estate and Spa

Live Jazz and Cocktails at the Culloden Estate and Spa

The moment I saw the beautiful Crozier Lounge located in the old chapel of the Culloden Hotel, I knew that I wanted to spend an evening there enjoying drinks by the fireside. As it turns out, we were in for a treat. As we sipped our respective rum and gin cocktails, we were entertained by a fabulous jazz trio playing a mixture of Christmas tunes and jazz favourites. The trio were only meant to play short sets but they proved to be extremely popular and played for over 90 minutes as patrons streamed from the restaurant to listen to them. It was a fabulous, memorable evening and we were glad to have secured seats before the lounge got busy.

The Spa at Culloden

Unwind and relax at The Spa at Culloden

There is something wonderful about floating in a swimming pool in a warm, bright and airy spa, oblivious to the cold and rainy wintery weather beyond. We splashed about in the pool, relaxed in the Jacuzzi, spent time in the steam room and cooled off under the refreshing monsoon showers before another dip in the pool and time spent snoozing on the recliners. It is the first time I’ve ever gone to a spa during the winter months but for just a couple of hours, I was filled with brightness, warmth and light to chase away the winter darkness. Highly recommended!

Afternoon tea at Culloden Hotel

Experience Afternoon Tea in the Culloden Hotel

The Mitre dining room at Culloden Hotel overlooks the Belfast Lough and the mountains of County Antrim beyond. It is certainly the best view I have ever encountered during an afternoon tea. It is here that you’ll encounter the fluffiest scones you have ever tasted as well as the perfect ham sandwich. The view, food and service set this afternoon tea experience apart from any I’ve previously experienced.

We had a wonderful time in Belfast and I can’t wait to tell you more about our experiences there. From the people to the service (always with a smile) to the accents and atmosphere, Belfast has become one of my top destinations in the United Kingdom. Dare we say love at first sight?

I’m keenly aware of what we didn’t see during our all too short time in Belfast. What would you recommend for our next visit?

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© 2008 - Mandy Southgate | Emm in London

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