On our whirlwind, 36-hour visit to Edinburgh, we realised at one point that we needed to somehow slowdown and take a moment to collect ourselves. We took a walk in East Princes Street Gardens, past the Scott Monument, and spotted the National (formerly known as the Scottish National Gallery).
On a crisp June evening, we embarked on Auld Reekie Tours' Vaults & Graveyard Tour, delving into Edinburgh's shadowy past. Our guide led us through the historic Greyfriars Graveyard and the eerie corridors of the 17th-century vaults, sharing chilling tales of body snatchers and restless spirits. Based in the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town, Auld Reekie Tours has been captivating visitors since 1995 with their unique tours.
We weren't sure what to do on our first afternoon in Edinburgh. I hadn't done my usual travel reconnaissance because this trip was about my friends Nic and Sarah, who had travelled from South Africa. It turns out that my rudimentary tour guiding skills were very much in demand. "I'm sure you'll think of something", Sarah remarked, reminding me that I'd been to Edinburgh before.
I recently took a whirlwind, thirty-six hour visit to Edinburgh to see my university friends Nic and Sarah who were visiting from South Africa. I flew up on the Tuesday morning from London City Airport and returned, thirty-six thousand steps later, on Wednesday evening.
There were so many interesting things to see as we pottered about. These were some of my favourites sights.
On our second morning in Loch Monzievaird, I enquired at reception about walks in the area and was told that I could take a circular walk around Laggan Hill and that it would ‘take about an hour’. After assuring the owner that I am indeed a seasoned walker, I left the grounds of Loch Monzievaird and set off up the hill.
It will surprise absolutely no one that I got lost
This is the point at which I went wrong, turning towards Trowan instead of veering toward Puddock Wood. What I thought would be a short 1 hour, 3 mile walk turned into a 5.5 mile or 9km hike.
Of course, for the longest time, I didn't realise that I was lost or that I was heading due west instead clockwise around an east, south-east loop.
This had nothing to do with me stopping every 3 minutes to admire the views and take photos of the scenery.
I soon found myself wandering deeper and deeper into the forest. I have to admit, I was pretty much in my element at this point until the path veered in a direction that I was absolutely not expecting it to.
It got to a point where I was photographing any landmark I could find because I incorrectly thought Google maps had my location wrong too (it didn't, I was way off course). I had very little mobile phone coverage the whole time on our holiday and it was glorious.
Eventually, I realised with dismay that Google Maps was not wrong and that I was closer to Trowan than I ever expected to be. I tried to take the path to Baird’s Monument but I either took another wrong turn or the path to the monument is not passable after recent storms because I found myself in deep forest and definitely off the path. I turned around swiftly! Here is a link to the monument at IWM – it is really lovely, I wish I’d have found it.
'No matter', I thought, 'I'll have a nice cup of tea and maybe a scone when I reach Trowan'
Except, as you can see above, Trowan is little more than this house and is mainly named for the large farm is there.
I walked a little further, hoping to find the loop I was trying to circle, but I dropped my paper map at some point and with it, I lost my bottle. I'd already taken an hour walk alone and gotten lost. The responsible thing was to head back along the same path.
My route took me through the forest again…
… past scenes of incredible beauty. I might not have taken the path I’d been expecting to but I loved every minute of the walk (barring the part near Baird’s Monument where I went sliding down what may or may not have still been the path).
Loved this post? Click to visit more of my posts on Loch Monzievaird, Scotland and exploring.
I'm linking up with Through My Lens for the first time, a link-up based on original photography.
A short while ago, I wrote about rail travel in Britain and how travelling by train is my favourite mode of travel. I guess I made it seem like travelling by car is less than ideal but there are two important aspects of car travel that absolutely trump rail travel: time and freedom.
When you go on road trips, you have the time to lie in bed a little bit late one morning and there is no reason why you can’t spend that little while longer in a coffee shop or museum. You have the freedom to choose the scenic route, you can stop to admire breathtaking scenery and you have significantly less chance of being thrown out of a moving carriage for singing at the top of your voice.
Road trips are about much more than just traveling between two points, they are about the journey, and road trips are as much fun to plan as they are to experience. Many of the recent trips we’ve taken have been to specific destinations for example, Snowdonia in Wales and Windermere in Cumbria but I’d like to tell you about some of the best road trips I’ve undertaken in Britain and one that I have begun to plan.
London – Stonehenge – Bristol – Bath – Oxford – London
Our first road trip took us through thousands of years of English history from the ancient standing stones of Stonehenge to the remains of the Roman baths in Bath and finally on to Oxford. This road trip took us two nights / three days but it would be really easy to add on another day or two if you wanted to extend your trip further west.
Our first stop was Stonehenge. Unless you’re there for the summer or winter solstice celebrations, there isn’t much point in hanging about more than an hour or so and so we headed off to spend the night in Bristol.
-> Detour: At this point it would be really easy to head north to Gloucestershire where you could spend the next day exploring the Forest of Dean and old town Gloucester. Alternatively, you could head further west and spend a day in Cardiff.
Early the next morning, we drove to Bath where we spent the day exploring the old town and the fabulous Roman Baths. After Bath, we drove on to Oxford and spent the next day on a walking tour of the old colleges before returning home again that evening.
London – Warwick – Liverpool – Manchester – York – St Albans - London
On our second English road trip, we stuck to our historic theme but this time delved into the more modern histories of Liverpool and Manchester, contrasted with the medieval histories of Warwick and York. This road trip was slightly longer at four nights / five days.
Leaving from London, we spent our first day in Warwick exploring the fabulous exhibits at Warwick Castle. We then drove up to Liverpool, where we spent the night, and we spent the next day exploring the Pier Head, Albert Dock and tracing the Beatles’ footsteps.
-> Detour: If you’d like to add an extra day into your itinerary, it would be a good idea at this point to head off to the fabulous walled city of Chester or you can also spent a day in Blackpool, a seaside resort town which I love but which most people say is a bit gaudy.
Our next destination was Manchester, the home of Manchester United, where we spent the night. We spent the next day and night taking advantage of Manchester’s great shopping opportunities and fabulous pubs, with a quick visit to Old Trafford.
Bright and early the next morning, we headed off to York where we discovered York Minster, the Shambles, Clifford’s Tower and the York Castle Museum. The next morning we headed home to London but made sure we stopped off at the Roman Ruins in St Albans on the way.
Edinburgh – Crieff – Aberfeldy – Pitlochry – Perth - Edinburgh
We spent a week in the Scottish Lowlands in 2010 and took several day trips from our base in Loch Monzievaird. I was absolutely enchanted by Scotland and was especially taken with the buildings in their creepy, Scottish Baronial style.
This trip wouldn’t have been possible without a car though, so I am going to suggest a four night / five day road trip of the area (with a bonus photo!)
On the first day, arrive in Edinburgh and spend the day exploring Edinburgh Castle, the Old Town and Princes Street Gardens. From Edinburgh, drive to the market town of Crieff and spend the next morning exploring the old town, Drummond Castle and Gardens and The Famous Grouse Experience.
Drive up to Aberfeldy where you’ll spend your second night. The next morning, you can explore the old town, visit the Watermill bookshop and check to see how the rebuilding works are going at the Art Deco cinema The Birks.
After lunch, you’ll then head off to Pitlochry, the home of Heathergems and Pitlochry Festival Theatre, where you’ll spend your third night. Pitlochry is especially popular among walkers and hikers so do keep that in mind if you arrive in season. It might be worth spending an extra night in Pithlochry if that interests you.
The next morning, you’ll drive down to Perth where you’ll visit Lochleven Castle and The Scottish Deer Centre. You’ll spend your final evening in Perth before returning to Edinburgh the next morning.
London – Bury St Edmunds – Norwich – Cambridge – London
Once again, we spent a week in Swilland Mill when we took our tour of East Anglia last December, but our adventures wouldn’t have been possible without a car. I’m going to suggest a short three day / two night road trip.
From London, drive up to Bury St Edmunds where you’ll spend the day exploring the ruins of the Abbey of St Edmund and the present day St Edmundsbury Cathedral. Spend the night in town, or perhaps drive through to one of the seaside towns of Aldeburgh, Southwold or Lowestoft.
Spend your second day in Norwich and be sure to check out Norwich Castle, the Royal Arcade, the market and the Church of St Peter Mancroft. Norwich really comes alive at night, so I’d definitely recommend you spend your second night in or near to the city.
You’ll return to London the next morning but do be sure to stop by the ancient university town of Cambridge on your way back. Take a long stroll around the colleges and down the canals and perhaps even indulge in a boat ride if weather permits.
London – Lincoln – Whitby – Newcastle – York – Nottingham – London
I’m pretty good at turning road trip plans into reality but there is one road trip I’ve been planning since 2010 which is still but a dream. The problem is that there is so much to see and so far to travel and while I’d like to think this is possible in five days / four nights, that might prove to be too tiring. This is a rough idea of the next road trip that I am planning:
On the first day, travel up to Lincoln where you can admire Lincoln Cathedral and also explore some of the abbeys and monasteries lying in ruin since the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
Travel up to Whitby the next day where you can explore one of the most famous ruins of all, Whitby Abbey. Be sure to stop off in town for some famous fish and chips too or indulge in some Gothic or Bram Stoker-themed adventures.
The third day would be spent in Newcastle, a town I have wanted to visit ever since passing through there on a train. The fourth day would be spent in York, exploring some of the Viking activities that we missed during our first visit and the last day would be spent following in Robin Hood’s footsteps in Nottingham.
What do you think? Too ambitious?
I hope that you find these road trips useful in planning your own around Britain. Personally, I can’t get enough of the history, architecture and countryside on this island. Finally, I bring you some valuable tips if you are considering taking a road trip.
Plan ahead but take it easy. Do plan your trips in advance to ensure that you make the most of your routes and don’t miss out on any attractions. Conversely, don’t be afraid to stop off somewhere unexpected or to take it a little easier if you’re beginning to feel fatigued.
No room at the inn. Britain is not like the continent and you might run into trouble if you don’t book your rooms ahead. Not only that, but you can lose out on some fantastic online or advance deals if you book ahead. We alternate between cosy country inns and the unbeatable £29 deal from Premier Inn.
Definitely learn the rules of the road. South Africans, New Zealanders and Australians can drive on their existing license for up to a year, whereupon they can exchange it for a British license. The problem is that the rules of the road can be pretty different. For example, speed limits are really clearly marked on all roads in South Africa but in the UK, you’re expected to remember what the standard speed limit is on a country road, a dual carriage way or the highway. Really, learn the rules of the road before you get behind the wheel!
You really don’t need to own a car. It is really easy to hire a car in the UK and it doesn’t have to be expensive either. We’ve used Enterprise before when we’ve travelled to Liverpool and we also hire a van from them every time we move house. It is at least four of us on our road trips so the cost of car hire is far less expensive than individual train tickets for those journeys.
Satellite navigation is your best friend. I can’t stress this last point enough. In addition to the road trips listed above, we’ve visited Wales, Cumbria, Isle of Wight and even France, and we’ve also undertaken countless journeys to visit family in Liverpool and Manchester. We use a Tom Tom and we ensure that we update it before each journey and we also subscribe to live traffic updates. Beg, borrow or steal a SatNav if you have to, even use your smart phone or Google Maps, but don’t try navigate a journey in Britain without these modern conveniences!
Do you have any road trip ideas? Be sure to share them below so that other people can follow your routes.
Back in 2003, Kevin and Jayne Ramage discovered a derelict mill in Aberfeldy in the Scottish Highlands. So enchanted were they by this listed building that they went on to open The Watermill, a bookshop, art gallery and coffee shop. The Watermill won the prize for the Bertrams Independent Bookshop of the Year in 2008.
We’d had a wonderful time exploring Aberfeldy, but our primary reason for visiting the town was to visit this famous bookshop and we certainly weren’t disappointed. It is said to have the largest range of titles in the Scottish Highlands and it is the perfect place to spend the afternoon browsing.
It is hard to pinpoint what is so special about this bookshop but perhaps it is the attention to detail. There is but one copy of each book which no doubt contributes to their ability to house a vast collection. The assistants were really friendly too and were quite happy to assist you in finding books.
The cafe is located on the lower level floor and opens up onto a veranda next to the old mill stream. I loved that you could still spot old bits of mill machinery about the building. It gives a lovely authentic feel to the whole bookshop.
There is an art gallery on the upper level of the building which is home to regular exhibitions. Being a fan of modern and urban art, I especially appreciated the pieces by Banksy and Blek le Rat.
As with most towns in the Highlands, you just need to peek down any side street to see breathtaking scenery. This is the view that you would enjoy if you sat beside the mill stream on the veranda and enjoyed a cup of coffee.
The Watermill
Mill Street
Aberfeldy
Perthshire
Scotland
PH15 2BG
It has been such an exciting couple of months in London that I haven’t dedicated much time to my other travels lately. I thought it would be the perfect day to visit the town of Aberfeldy in Perthshire in the Scottish Highlands. Aberfeldy is a small market town located close to Crieff and Pitlochry. It is not as geared to tourists as other towns in the area but it is certainly worth a visit.
Above you can see the town square and the derelict Birks cinema built in 1939 in the Art Deco style. This building is such a gem, it would be amazing if it was refurbished and used as a cinema or theatre once again. Oh! It looks like such a project is indeed underway by “The Friends of the Birks” and the patron of the project is the superb actor Alan Cumming who was born in Aberfeldy. This is great news!
During our visit to Aberfeldy, I was thrilled to see more examples of Scots Baronial Style architecture that we saw throughout our visit to Perthshire. This gothic revival style really inspired my imagination and I imagined creepy rain storms, mystery and intrigue in the Scottish Highlands.
Were it not for the sight of modern cars, you could easily imagine that you had stepped back to Victorian times when visiting Aberfeldy. Many of the shops had closed when we were there but I think this is a town that will see great growth and rejuvenation in the years to come, especially when the cinema reopens.
We had lunch in the Fountain restaurant behind the old Victorian water fountain. Of course, after a long walk through the town, we were enjoying lunch far too much to worry about taking photos!
If you look into the distance in the photo below, you can just make out the hills of the Scottish Highlands. Aberfeldy is known for its beautiful, scenic walks. Perhaps that is why JK Rowling recently bought a house nearby?
Our primary reason for visiting Aberfeldy had been to visit The Watermill, a famous bookshop, art gallery and coffee shop located at the edge of the town. The Watermill was so exciting that it deserves its very own post!
I will leave you at our approach to the bookshop and another view of the gorgeous scenery in the distance.
Situated in Perthshire, Aberfeldy is located at the intersection of the A826 to Crieff and the A827, which branches off the A9 to Pitlochry.
On the third day of our trip to Scotland last year, we headed up to the beautiful town of Pitlochry. As you enter Pitlochry and drive past the Bells distillery, you can’t help but notice how beautiful it is up there. No matter which direction you look in, there is always a glimpse of the Highlands in the corner of your eye. Pitlochry has a distinctive style of architecture (the Scots Baronial Style) and we were treated to many rounded turrets and gothic looking façades.
It is safe to say that I loved the architecture and scenery so much in Pitlochry that I went a bit crazy with the photographs. I’d love to put up each and every photo individually and wax on about how beautiful it is up there but I’ll spare you. Click on any of the images for an enlargement.
Pitlochry is less than an hour’s drive away from where we were staying at Loch Monzievaird near Crieff and it is one of the most beautiful drives I have ever been on. Our main reason for driving this way was so that we could visit the Heathergems Visitor Centre and Factory Outlet Shop.
Above the Heathergems outlet you can see the old Pitlochry East Church which has since been converted into nine swanky apartments and is now known as John Stewart Court. John Stewart was a famous visionary and Pitlochry resident, known for establishing Pitlochry Festival Theatre which still runs today.
Heather (Calluna vulgaris) grows all over the hills and highlands of Scotland. It has a limited lifespan though and after a couple of years, the heather becomes woody and has little nutritional value to grouse or other animals. This is what the people from Heathergems harvest and by doing so, they enable new heather to grow and the land to become fertile again.
They collect, cut and clean the heather and then dye it with natural dyes. Red, green, purple and yellow dye are primarily used. The heather is then compressed into big blocks which are cut into slices. Shapes are cut out of the slices which are then polished and lacquered to produce the most colourful and beautiful jewellery.
The jewellery and accessories are surprisingly affordable, considering the skill and artistry that goes into making them. You can see the whole collection of their products at the Heathergems online shop.
After Heathergems, we relaxed for a while in Victoria’s Restaurant and Coffee Shop. The most intriguing aspect of this restaurant is that they elevate the drinking of tea to a form of art and they had a huge variety of speciality teas. I somehow managed to restrain myself from stealing one of their menus but the quote on the back of the menu above reads, “Strange how a teapot can represent at the same time, the comforts of solitude and the pleasure of company”.
Pitlochry is a beautiful old Victorian town and I can see why it was such a popular tourist destination in the Victorian age. We only spent a day there but I could easily imagine spending a whole week there, going on long walks in the surrounding hills and browsing in the speciality shops.
Out of all the towns we visited in Scotland, Pitlochry was my favourite. If you do visit, be sure to look out for the Sweeney Todd barbershop in the photo above. (You just have to love the Scottish sense of humour). The barbershop is next to a butchers where I bought the best Scotch pie I have ever tasted in my life. Yum.
I love castles. The idea that these magnificent stone structures were built hundreds, perhaps thousands of years ago and continue to dominate the countryside around them intrigues me. Drummond Castle in Crieff, Scotland was built in 1490 by John, 1st Lord Drummond and went through major transformations and remodelling around 1630 and 1890. The imposing Drummond Castle Keep is the first part of the complex that you see from the car park, after driving down the exquisite Beech Avenue which is over a mile long.
Drummond Castle is not open to the public but that is not the reason you visit here anyway. The major reason to visit here is to see the exquisite Drummond Gardens.
The Drummond Gardens are laid out in the design of a St Andrew’s Cross. These formal gardens are expertly divided into sections with shrubs, deciduous tress, maples, topiary, coniferous trees and twenty-one types of apples but I realised quite quickly that I was out of my depth.
I’m certainly not an expert on fauna and plant life so I took a relaxing walk around the gardens and just appreciated all of the sights.
John Mylne’s Sundial (above left and centre) lies right in the middle of the St Andrew’s Cross and was erected in 1630. It is known as a multiplex sundial and apparently shows the time in different countries. I can’t comment on that because I have never, even managed to tell the time on a sundial!
I loved the detail on this arch that formed the bottom boundary of the garden, leading to the rose and vegetable gardens.
In the bottom photo here you can see the copper beech tree that Queen Victoria planted when she visited in 1842. It is strange to imagine that this magnificent tree must have been a mere shrub 169 years ago!
I really love this photo and it shows what a gorgeous day it was when we visited. It occurs to me that I managed to get no pictures whatsoever of the grounds people. That is quite a feat as there were so many of them!They work nearly every day and it takes them a full year to complete a maintenance cycle! They are obviously very talented!
It said in the brochure that the bridge in the photos above was the original drive. I guess that means that we came in through the back entrance and that the gardens were once to the front of the castle as opposed to the back. That makes sense really.
This is Drummond Castle and was largely remodelled and rebuilt in the mid-19th century. I saw this particular style of architecture, which I believe to be Scots Baronial Style, all around Scotland and I really love the creepy haunted house look. If you look carefully at the photo above, you can see black birds flying around the turrets of the castle above and they certainly added to the eerie sense of foreboding!
This last photo was taken from the top and Ste was looking down over the gardens. The scenery was breath taking (as it so often is in Scotland) and we had a hard time tearing ourselves away.
