A Spring Weekend in Leeds: Arcades, Ruins & Good Food

Back in March, as spring was beginning to arrive in England, I was summoned up to Leeds for an appointment. Rather than simply travel there and back in a day, we decided to make a weekend of it, as I'd always wanted to visit this lovely northern city. With an itinerary jam-packed with ruins, historic sites and plenty of places to eat, we set off for a spring weekend in Leeds.

Leeds Corn Exchange

After checking into our hotel, our first port of call was a walk around the city to stretch our legs. We headed straight for the soaring dome and Victorian beauty of the Leeds Corn Exchange and were delighted by the range of quirky independent shops.

The Leeds Corn Exchange was originally built as a trading hub for the city’s corn merchants, providing a place for farmers and traders to buy and sell grain. It was converted to an independent shopping centre in 1990 following an extensive restoration.

Kirkgate Market

Our next stop was Kirkgate Market. Trade had mostly closed for the day, so while we were able to appreciate the design and architecture of this old Victorian market, we knew we had to return the next day to sample some food.

Kirkgate Market first opened in 1857 as an outdoor market, before moving into its purpose-built covered halls in 1875.

Cross Arcade

Next we happened upon the Cross Arcade, a magnificent Victorian shopping arcade famed for its ornate marble columns, intricate mosaics, decorative ironwork and elegant shopfronts. I'm not much of a shopper but I can't get enough of Victorian arcades.

The Ship Inn

In need of a lager shandy, we were happy to discover a tiny pub located just outside of the arcade. The Ship Inn, tucked away down a narrow alley off Briggate, is one of the oldest pubs in Leeds. It dates back to the 1750s and was once known as the Ship and Griffin.

Dinner at Wapentake

Our next stop was probably the most touristy thing we did all weekend. We headed into Wapentake on Kirkgate for a Yorkshire Pudding Burger. It was a bit dry for my liking but I'd return to this quirky pub for their other fare.

Nightcap at Wharf Chambers

Our final stop for the evening was one that I was most looking forward to. Wharf Chambers is an independent, LGBTQ+ co-operatively run bar and cultural venue, celebrated for its queer roots, inclusive ethos and support for Leeds’ alternative arts, music and club scene. Being a cooperative, you have to join to drink there, but membership costs only a couple of quid and is definitely worth it.

Breakfast at the Cosy Club

We woke up bright and early on Saturday morning* and headed off to the Cosy Club for breakfast. With views over Bond Street and Albion Street, the restaurant lives up to its name and serves a delicious Garden Brunch vegetarian breakfast.

*Who am I kidding? We didn't set our alarm that morning

Kirkstall Abbey

We then hopped on a bus to visit the stunning ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, my favourite experience of the weekend.

Abbey House Museum

When researching Kirkstall Abbey, it was suggested that you could take or leave the Abbey House Museum which is located across the road. I respectfully disagree. I loved the recreation of the Victorian streets and the vintage toy collection upstairs.

Back to Kirkgate Market

Back in Leeds, we finally enjoyed a delicious sweet cheese pastry in the market.

Dinner at Stuzzi Leeds

We enjoyed a delicious meal that night at Stuzzi, Leeds, an independent Italian restaurant. They serve small plates and their pasta is to die for. Booking ahead is absolutely recommended!

Breakfast at Laynes

Laynes was another place that I was really looking forward to and I had the most delicious sweetcorn fritters with poached egg I've ever had.

A Walk Along the Leeds–Liverpool Canal

Our final stop of the weekend was a walk along the Leeds–Liverpool Canal, where I was hoping to see some iconic graffiti. We must have walked in the wrong direction because we didn't see any graffiti and eventually, we found ourselves back on the road after being forced off the canal path.

Consolation Graffiti Photos

We did see some good street art over the weekend though, including this lovely mural featuring three former Leeds United footballers, two of whom were originally South African. From left to right is Albert Johanneson, Kalvin Phillips and Lucas Radebe.

Where We stayed: DoubleTree By Hilton

We stayed at DoubleTree by Hilton Leeds City Centre, which is located on Granary Wharf, right by Leeds Station. It's a perfect location.

Our favourite coffee shop: Out of the Woods

Located just outside our hotel, we popped into Out of the Woods many times over the course of the weekend for their collection of unique and quirky hot and cold drinks. It was definitely one of our favourite places.

Isn't it amazing what you can see in 48 hours? Our short stay in Leeds turned out to be one of my favourite weekends ever.