The Bernina Express: A Panoramic Train Through the Swiss Alps

I’ve found my new favourite rail journey. In November, we travelled on the famous Bernina Express, a panoramic train that runs from Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city, to the Italian Alpine town of Tirano. It’s an incredible experience offering uninterrupted views across the Swiss Alps, from glacial landscapes and snow-dusted peaks to winding viaducts and tiny Alpine hamlets.

Our train departed Chur at 8.17am on a freezing cold November morning. We were relieved to be allowed straight on board on arrival. The toasty interior was a welcome shelter from the cold, and our jackets were quickly relegated to the coat racks.

Within moments of departure, we were transported to a winter wonderland as the train travelled past snow-capped pine forests in misty valleys.

My goddaughter Keira and I had been excited for our journey on the Bernina Express, but nothing quite prepared us for the jaw-dropping vistas or outstanding beauty. Our mouths and eyes were wide open for much of the journey, and we had to actively stop ourselves from taking too many photos so we could simply sit back and enjoy the scenery.

We were allowed off the train at Alp Grüm. It was the first time Keira had seen so much snow and she couldn’t resist making snowballs.

I wish I could bottle the experience of breathing in that crisp, pure Alpine air, its clean scent cleansing the soul, and gazing upon those timeless mountains. These are the scenes I bring to mind now when I retreat to my happy place.

I’ve mentioned before that I’m a recent convert to cold-weather activities, only convinced after our trip to Bergen in December 2023 that I could survive subzero temperatures. It will come as no surprise to winter-activity enthusiasts that I enjoyed this Alpine experience so much I’ve started planning a beginner ski trip.

All too soon we returned to the train for the next leg of our journey as the Bernina Express winds its way into Italy.

We passed countless tiny villages and marvelled as the train travelled down the helical viaduct at Brusio.

Tips and Tricks for Journeys on the Bernina Express

Before booking your journey on the Bernina Express, definitely visit the excellent blog by The Man in Seat 61. In it, he shares tips on how to save on train tickets by booking from Germany,  as well as the importance of making a seat reservation on the Rhätische Bahn website if you want to travel in the panoramic carriages. All reserved tickets sell out early, so book as soon as you can, especially if you want First Class Tickets.

Mandy’s Top Tip

If I had to do this again (and I hope to one day do the journey from Tirano back to Chur), I would choose carefully which side of the carriage to sit on. If you are journeying from Chur to Tirano, the iconic viaduct views will be on the right-hand side of the train, so the best seats are window seats on the right of the carriage, facing forward. If you are travelling from Tirano to Chur, the viaduct curves to the left, so the best seats are forward-facing seats on the left of the carriage.

Pack sunglasses. You won’t believe how sunny it can be in the Alps. I had pale, pink-tinted sunglasses that were perfect for wearing inside the train and helped prevent headaches from the glare.

Take Your Time

Consider lingering longer. It is definitely possible to fly into Zurich on one day and out of Milan the next day, with a day spent on the Bernina Express. But in my next post, I will tell you about our six day itinerary and my inspiration for both taking the trip and for slowing it down.