Buxton Memorial and Victoria Tower

Buxton Memorial Fountain

My favourite moments in London are those that transform so easily from interest to wonder. A week ago, I decided to walk from Victoria Station to Charing Cross. Instead of taking my usual route via Buckingham Palace and The Mall, I walked via Lambeth Bridge and soon found myself in Victoria Tower Gardens.  This is the tiny garden tucked between the Thames, Millbank Tower and the Houses of Parliament. 

I was certainly intrigued by the ornate Victorian structure in the garden but fascinated to learn that this was a memorial commemorating the emancipation of slaves in the British Empire in 1834. I have a keen interest in both historical and modern-day slavery and was very interested to discover this.

Victoria Tower

It was a beautiful, sunny day in London, as it often is in the winter months just before the temperature drops and snow arrives. Sure enough, we had snow (as light as it was) on Monday.

I was at the south-west end of the Palace of Westminster which is home to the Houses of Parliament and I was quite taken by the beautiful and imposing tower looming over the gardens. Well, it wasn’t really doing any such thing on this bright, crisp morning but I’m sure it must on stormy nights!

Victoria Tower, Palace of Westminster

Once I took this photo, I took a look at my map and was a little confused at first because it said that I was at the Victoria Tower. Not knowing what that was, I looked around once or twice to see if I could spot any other tower. I was approached by one of the Houses of Parliament security personnel and as you might imagine, that is a slightly daunting experience!

“Can I help you with something”, he asked, naturally trying to ascertain whether I really was a hapless tourist or something else entirely. I pointed up to the tower and hurriedly asked what it was and I’m eternally grateful that he didn’t answer that it was a tower, which I’m sure his London wit was aching to do. Indeed, he was nothing but polite and professional and answered that it was the Victoria Tower. “Thank you so much”, I gushed, in my best impersonation of a non-threatening, hapless tourist, “that’s exactly what I was looking for”.

So this is the Victoria Tower, south-west tip of the Palace of Westminster and home to the Parliamentary Archives. At 98.5 metres high, it is taller than Big Ben (formally known as Elizabeth Tower).

Old Palace Yard, Palace of Westminster

I decided not to linger and continued on my walk. (Just as well because as you might notice by the time on Big Ben below, I was going to be late to work, again). I did stop briefly to marvel at the architectural wonder that is the Palace of Westminster. How exquisite and ornate is that? How intricate the detail that went into every arch, curve, line, alcove, window, spire and corner! The photo above was taken in the part of the Palace known as Old Palace Yard.

Westminster Hall, Palace of Westminster 

Old Palace refers to the old Palace of Westminster that was destroyed in a fire in 1834. Westminster Hall was one of the only parts of the original palace that survived and that was only due to extensive fire fighting efforts and a change in direction of the wind.

Like I said, by the time I took this photo, I was definitely going to be late for work as I was almost a mile away and even I can’t walk that in ten minutes.  That didn’t stop me from stealing a photo of the beautiful Whitehall Court, of course, which I will show you on Monday.

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Close Encounters at the Lion Park, Johannesburg

Update May 2014: I did enjoy my visit to the Lion Park in Johannesburg and will leave this post up but my opinion of this establishment and the Rhino and Lion Reserve has since changed. I have come to understand the plight of captive bred lions, how lionnesses are subjected to the traumatic, forced removal of their cubs and how lions bred in these parks eventually land up being victims of canned hunting.

If this concerns you as it has me, then please consider not frequenting these parks.

Sometimes I amuse myself. When I was planning our trip to Johannesburg, I thought that I would skip the Lion Park, as we’ve visited that and the Lion and Rhino Park before.  We were considering visiting the elephant sanctuary in Hartebeespoort Dam but they charge R450 (£30) each  for a child’s ride on an elephant, in addition to an exorbitant entrance fee.  The idea was to spend quality time around animals with our nieces but not to put pressure on the adults during an expensive time of year.

In the end, it was an easy decision.  I love the Lion Park because of their important conservation work and the incredible achievements they have made in breeding rare white lions.  Most importantly, both children and adults get a chance to get really close to lion cubs, giraffes and other wildlife in a fun, educational setting. 

We arrived early in the morning and booked a Guided Day Game Drive.  These drives are not cheap either but for the entrance fee of R225 (£16) for adults and R140 (£10) for children, you get access to the Cub World and a 1 hour game drive with a brilliant guide.

While we were waiting for our allotted time on our game drive, we spent some time in the cub enclosure and it was incredible. I feel so inspired and alive after spending time with these animals and I love their quirky personalities.

The little cub above was not having a good day.  He was hot and bothered and had snarled at me when I extended my hand toward him.  I was really scared (honestly, I was!) but I absolutely understood, it was over 30°c that day.

These two cubs were a little bit more relaxed but they were also lazing in the shade, away from the harsh glare of the sun.  Aren’t they pretty?

I’ve been fortunate in my life and have had lots of encounters with lion cubs but this was the first time I came this close to giraffes.  They are just the funniest creatures! They seem more interactive than horses but I couldn’t quite shake the feeling that we were there purely for their amusement. And giraffe feed, of course. 

Giraffes have the stickiest tongues ever.  Seriously, I appreciate my dogs now.

Did I mention that it was a gorgeous, sunny day?

Walking underneath giraffes was a bit strange because they tower over you.  I was immediately reminded of scenes in Jurassic Park when the dinosaurs towered over the humans.

It was soon time for our game drive.  I didn’t take too many photos during the drive because it was difficult to do so out of the truck and I was also preventing my little nieces from popping their arms out of the open windows.  The first part of the drive is through the open plains area where you can see Springbok, Wildebeest, Blesboks, Zebra and my absolute favourites, Gemboks. 

You then drive into the enclosures where lions, cheetahs and wild dogs are keep (well apart from each other, I might add!)

The Lion Park offers night drives which are definitely recommended as you tend to see a lot of sleeping lions when you visit during the day.  You can also self drive through the park in your own car and that is also recommended as you can get truly close encounters with full grown lions then (as you can see in my previous post). On this occasion, however, this was the best decision as the guide was funny, knowledgeable and brilliant and the children loved it.

The Pride of Africa.

And an even prouder lion cub.

You generally see one male lion living with a pride of lionesses and cub and it is no surprise that you see far more lionesses than lions.  I quite liked this loving couple.

This was the closest we came to the pride when a lioness came to drink water right beside our truck.  Look at that stunning muscle tone and shiny coat.  The lions are really well cared for at the Lion Park. 

We were really amused to spot this lioness in a tree.  Lions are not the greatest tree climbers and it is usually leopards that will climb into trees and even drag their prey into trees to eat.  This lioness was very irritated and was getting quite vocal in her displeasure.  Did I mention that it was hot?

On our way out of the park, we almost missed this lazy pair of cheetahs.  Cheetahs are really beautiful and the most tameable of all the big cats.  Unfortunately, that does not mean you can keep one as a pet, even if the ancient Egyptians thought that was a good idea.  Click to read about my last encounter with a cheetah (and lion cubs!) here.

I would absolutely recommend the Lion Park, especially if you are mixed group with adults and children.  Me? I’m counting the days until I go again and I won’t try to convince myself otherwise again.

The Lion Park, Johannesburg
Corner Malibongwe Drive & R114 Road,
Honeydew,
Gauteng,
South Africa
Tel +27 (87) 150 0100 / + 27 (11) 691 9905 -11
Cell +27 (76) 187 3883 / +27 (82) 382 4473
Email info@lionpark.com

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A Valentine’s Plan

A short while ago, we were in the West End when Stephen turned to me and said that we really should spend a night or two in the centre of London one day.  I’ve never really thought about it because we live so close and usually go home after spending a day or evening in London. But Stephen is right and I’ve started thinking about my perfect overnight stay in London. It was then that I came up with a Valentine’s Plan.

Book Ahead: The Hotel

I can’t seem to get enough of the Thames at the moment so while I love the idea of posh hotels in Mayfair and Kensington, I’d definitely be looking for hotels that offer a fabulous view of the Thames or landmarks such as Tower Bridge or the London Eye. It is a long time since I’ve booked a hotel in London (the last time being our honeymoon!) but there really are hotels to suit every budget. Nevertheless, this is a romantic getaway, so I would love to book at the Park Plaza Riverbank or the Marriott London County Hall. Hey, a girl can dream - their views are incredible!

On Arrival: Take a Walk

Another reason for booking a hotel along the banks of the Thames is the fabulous walking opportunities this affords.  On arrival, you can take a long, romantic stroll up along the Southbank towards London Bridge and the Shard, over Tower Bridge and back down the Thames Path past the Tower to Blackfriars Bridge. Cross over at Blackfriars and wander past Oxo Tower and Gabriel’s Wharf and on to the National Theatre and the Southbank Centre.

Eating Out: The World’s Your Oyster

I tried to do a quick count of how many restaurants you’d pass during this riverside walk but I kept losing count! The Bankside and Southbank area is full of restaurants catering to every culinary preference. Fluid London gives a list of the Top 10 Restaurants with Romantic Views across London. 

During the Day: Art and Culture

I just know that spring is around the corner because the London art and culture scene is heating up and there are some fantastic exhibitions on over Valentine’s Day.  There is an exhibition on the life and work of my favourite designer Valentino over at Somerset House. Valentino: Master of Couture runs until 3 March 2013 and tickets are £12.50/£9 concessions.

There are always good exhibitions on at the gallery@oxo located at Oxo Tower Wharf and the DASH Magazine Hosts CH Talents exhibition looked especially interesting (see image above). There is also a display of Heather Leitch’s Iconic Scenes of the World running from 6-10 February.  All exhibitions at the gallery@oxo are free.

If all of this culture seems a little high-brow for you, perhaps you can appeal to your inner child and visit the Imagine Children’s Festival running from 11-24 February 2013.  This literature festival will feature Anthony Horowitz (my favourite author of all time) speaking about his new novel Oblivion on 19 February.  I can’t think of anything more romantic!

In the Evening: Catch a Show

You can’t have a romantic interlude in London without catching a West End show. We’ve gone ahead and booked Valentine’s tickets for Billy Elliott at Victoria Palace Theatre and I cannot wait. You can also catch War Horse at New London Theatre, which I highly recommend, or The Bodyguard at Adelphi Theatre for some classic romance.

I’m not sure if I’ll be able to plan all of this in two weeks and it is a pity that Valentine’s Day falls on a Thursday this year! But all of this planning definitely makes me excited for a long London summer of festivals, exhibitions, arts, culture and live events. 

What are your plans for Valentine’s Day? Why don’t you plan a similar post and tell me all about what there is to do in your city?

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Snapshots: From London Bridge to Charing Cross

I find myself faced with a unique challenge during my morning walks from London Bridge to Charing Cross.  London is so beautiful at this time of year and all I want to do is explore, drink in the views and take photographs.  Alas, I must be disciplined and make sure that I get to work at a reasonable time. Here are a couple of my favourite iPhone photos from the past couple of weeks.

Sometimes you need to take a step back and look at the bigger picture.  I was just about to zoom in on St Paul’s Cathedral when I realised that this photo wouldn’t be complete without the dramatic sky and Shakespeare quote.

“Men's evil manners live in brass; their virtue we write in water”
― William Shakespeare, Henry VIII

One of these days I'll find a way to explore the Inner Temple Gardens. In the meantime, I make sure to visit the City of London boundary dragons every so often.

London Bridge is so pretty at dawn. One day I will take a photo that does this historic bridge justice.

The Thames is tidal and the water is especially choppy at dawn.  I really loved the dramatic sky and water on this particular morning.

If you cross over London Bridge and take the stairs down to Upper Tames Road, you can see this stunning view of the Shard and Fishmonger's Hall.

I always appreciate the juxtaposition of old and new in London.  Here you can see one of the original Cannon Street towers and the facade of the newly constructed Watermark Place.

I've always wanted to take a photo of Old Father Thames but I'm usually really late by the time I reach this point on my walks.  This morning was no different but I just couldn’t resist.

I have to admit, I'll a little fickle. After loyally following the construction of the Shard for over two years, I have found a new object of admiration.  The Walkie-Talkie Building (officially 20 Fenchurch Street) is going to be massive and while it won’t be as tall as the Shard, it is going to dwarf the Gherkin when completed.

I was just a little bit lost when I stumbled upon the Royal Courts of Justice one morning and ever so slightly late for work too. I’d had a wonderful time exploring the alleys of the City but this complex was just magical.  One day I promise to set out just a little bit earlier so that I can fully explore this fairy tale neighbourhood.

Shortly before the snow really came to London, we had one morning where it pretended to come. I specifically headed straight for St Paul’s Cathedral on this particular morning to capture the slightest dusting of snow on the dome.

And the day before the snow really came to London, the skies were blue but it was bitterly cold.  It was also absolutely beautiful and I couldn’t resist turning towards Tower Bridge before I headed back to Charing Cross.  I took this photo at day break.

The best part about my early morning walks? I get to see daylight. Winter in London can be brutal but I realise that even at its darkest, the sun rises at 8am and I am absolutely cashing in on that hour of light. Sometimes I see a bit of blue sky and very occasionally a ray of sunshine, although I have to admit, it sometimes takes me a while to recognise what the pale golden glow actually is.

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Must See: War Horse at the New London Theatre

In my mind, I’ve always considered a divide between theatre and film. I’d never truly been moved by a show, never truly experienced the full range of emotions from elation to devastation and I was okay with that because that was the arena of film. That changed when I saw War Horse. 

In a word, War Horse is spectacular. Based on the novel by Michael Morpurgo, War Horse has been brought to London’s New London Theatre by A Really Useful Group Theatre in association with South Africa’s Handspring Puppet Company. 

I enjoyed every minute of the play and it really is the best West End show I have ever seen.  Let me tell you a little bit more about the story, the actors, the set design and artwork and most of all, the puppets.

War Horse

War Horse is a delightful story but I obviously don’t want to give too much away.  It is the story of how a young hunter is captured as a foal and sold at auction to the Narracotts, a farming family.  Young Albert Narracott falls in love with the foal, names him Joey and works him until he earns his trust.  All too soon, the First World War breaks out and the army calls for horses for the cavalry.  Despite being separated, the bond between Albert and Joey ultimately proves to overcome the distance between them and the horrors of the war. This is a story about the futility of war and drawing lines, and the transcendence of love and hope.

The Cast

We were quite lucky on the evening we went to see War Horse because John Trindle was playing Albert Narracott (he usually plays Albert’s cousin, Billy).  John did a really good job and he was absolutely endearing as the wide-eyed and optimistic Albert.  I adored Rachel Sanders in her role as Rose Narracott, Albert’s mother. She was hilarious and made a great pair with Steve Nicolson who played Albert’s father, Ted.

My favourite actor was Richard Cant who played the conflicted German soldier Friedrich Müller. He gave a truly impeccable performance and managed somehow to win the sympathy of the audience despite being one of the enemy. 

The Set and the Artwork

The War Horse set is quite simple but designer Rae Smith made use of exquisite artwork to convey the torn and devastated landscapes of war time France.  Fragments of film, torn sketches from a notebook and other images were projected onto a screen and certainly made a dark and convincing backdrop for the play.  When considered alongside the puppets, which I shall discuss next, it is no surprise that I found myself so emerged in the play.

The Puppets

I was impressed when I saw photos of the puppets before the show and after reading up about the Handspring Puppet Company, I knew we were in for a real treat. What I didn’t expect was to be so taken by these realistic and expressive puppets that I was moved to tears in the heart wrenching scenes towards the end of the play. I was so engrossed that I forgot for a moment that these were puppets, not real horses. 

Hmmm.  I don’t think I’ve quite conveyed the depth of my emotions there.  Let’s just say there was a scene involving barbed wire that had me beating my chest and taking deep gulps of air, hoping against hope for an impossible outcome. It was agonising and in that moment, it did not feel like it was a mere puppet up there on the stage.

The puppets are life size and not only are we treated to both foals and full grown horses in the play, but there are also a fabulous goose, birds and crows. While the smaller animals require just one puppeteer, the horses require at least three people working behind the scenes but there were times when I barely noticed the puppeteers. These are not static puppets, that is for sure, and no detail is ignored.  Ears flick in annoyance, the horse shifts weight from one back leg to the other while standing still, and they use their full momentum to rear up in anger.

War Horse is absolutely impressive in every way and I simply can’t fault it.  I feel like I’ve been disappointed so many times in London theatres (I see a lot more than I review!) but this is one play that I would be happy to see again and again.

War Horse
New London Theatre
Drury Lane London
WC2B 5PW

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